'Hello good people,
As my project is nearing completion I am going to replace the push-rod tube hoses, that is the 2" long hoses that connect the push-rod tube to the nipple on the engine. I am attempting to do this without removing the cylinders because the engine only has 115 hours since major overhaul. but the hoses are not young and healthy because, the overhaul was done 20+ years ago. Do any of you have experience doing this hose change? If so I am all ears! Please advise.
JP.Lorie
Florida
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]'
SV: [fairchildclub] Warrner165Qestion
-
paul pinato
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2001 11:11 am
SV: [fairchildclub] Warrner165Qestion
'Hi JP
Just did this job on four of my cylinders. Once
the clamps are lose you just turn the
push-rod-tube. I cut my spanner to about eight ?
ten inches long and had to grind it very tin so I
could turn it and change grip. I tried with a ring
spanner by open it so the tube just entered but
some of the tubes where hard to loosen so the
spanner opened up and slipped.
It is a pain staking job. Finger knuckles will
bleed. You need also to know a lot of nasty words
as you will need them to.
You can only turn the tube one twelfth of a turn
at the time. The one on the intake side are
difficult not saying impossible. It is so that
the intake manifold and push-rod tube on that side
are installed before installing the cylinders .
When turning the tube the hose will turn on the
engine boss. So if the hose is stuck on the tube
you will work against that to by compressing it.
Do not cut the hose with a knife.
If you remove the exhaust manifold it will be
easier.
Also the hexagon grip on the tube is very thin and
the metal is soft. I damaged two of them and had
to pull the cylinders. The ones on the bottom
cylinders are a nightmare you have to lay down and
work upwards. I used pallets to come up.
Next time I will pull the cylinders. Then it will
be a straight forward job without bleeding
knuckles and cursing.
Also remember that the o-rings on the intake
manifold and cylinder base are 20+ years old.
Next thing is to chose the right quality of hose.
I did the mistake to by on the market. Everything
was OK until I switched from the straight 100 to
the ash dispersants oil W100 and winter time
W15-50. It softened the rubber. Explanation was
that the EU has forbidden some chemicals in the
rubber doe to the cancer risk.
So stick to the old good MS quality.
Good Luck
Paul
Paul Pinato
UC61A 43-14840
SE-AWS
paul.pinato@swipnet.se
Från: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com] För Jp
Lorie
Skickat: den 31 augusti 2011 16:11
Till: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Ämne: [fairchildclub] Warrner165Qestion
Hello good people,
As my project is nearing completion I am going
to replace the push-rod tube hoses, that is the 2"
long hoses that connect the push-rod tube to the
nipple on the engine. I am attempting to do this
without removing the cylinders because the engine
only has 115 hours since major overhaul. but the
hoses are not young and healthy because, the
overhaul was done 20+ years ago. Do any of you
have experience doing this hose change? If so I
am all ears! Please advise.
JP.Lorie
Florida
[Non-text portions of this message have been
removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]'
Just did this job on four of my cylinders. Once
the clamps are lose you just turn the
push-rod-tube. I cut my spanner to about eight ?
ten inches long and had to grind it very tin so I
could turn it and change grip. I tried with a ring
spanner by open it so the tube just entered but
some of the tubes where hard to loosen so the
spanner opened up and slipped.
It is a pain staking job. Finger knuckles will
bleed. You need also to know a lot of nasty words
as you will need them to.
You can only turn the tube one twelfth of a turn
at the time. The one on the intake side are
difficult not saying impossible. It is so that
the intake manifold and push-rod tube on that side
are installed before installing the cylinders .
When turning the tube the hose will turn on the
engine boss. So if the hose is stuck on the tube
you will work against that to by compressing it.
Do not cut the hose with a knife.
If you remove the exhaust manifold it will be
easier.
Also the hexagon grip on the tube is very thin and
the metal is soft. I damaged two of them and had
to pull the cylinders. The ones on the bottom
cylinders are a nightmare you have to lay down and
work upwards. I used pallets to come up.
Next time I will pull the cylinders. Then it will
be a straight forward job without bleeding
knuckles and cursing.
Also remember that the o-rings on the intake
manifold and cylinder base are 20+ years old.
Next thing is to chose the right quality of hose.
I did the mistake to by on the market. Everything
was OK until I switched from the straight 100 to
the ash dispersants oil W100 and winter time
W15-50. It softened the rubber. Explanation was
that the EU has forbidden some chemicals in the
rubber doe to the cancer risk.
So stick to the old good MS quality.
Good Luck
Paul
Paul Pinato
UC61A 43-14840
SE-AWS
paul.pinato@swipnet.se
Från: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com] För Jp
Lorie
Skickat: den 31 augusti 2011 16:11
Till: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Ämne: [fairchildclub] Warrner165Qestion
Hello good people,
As my project is nearing completion I am going
to replace the push-rod tube hoses, that is the 2"
long hoses that connect the push-rod tube to the
nipple on the engine. I am attempting to do this
without removing the cylinders because the engine
only has 115 hours since major overhaul. but the
hoses are not young and healthy because, the
overhaul was done 20+ years ago. Do any of you
have experience doing this hose change? If so I
am all ears! Please advise.
JP.Lorie
Florida
[Non-text portions of this message have been
removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]'