Lucky
'----- Original Message -----
From: ranger440c5
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 1:32 PM
Subject: [fairchildclub] Re: Timing the engine with new mags
Can someone who has responded to this subject explain to me their
reluctance to removing a prop? Is it because they have an Aeromatic?
I too dreaded removing my prop (Ranger W/ Warner hub+ Sensennich
86AB54)...until I noticed some "smoking" at hub/prop junction. Upon
removal, it was discovered (not related to original reason for
removal) that the rear cone was in the advanced stages of galling.
Nearly threatening the hub's integrity. Hub was not loose nor was
nut. I found it no issue to remove prop/hub assemby and made it a
personal inspection point at every other annual. I wouldn't think it
is a "set it and forget it" Ronco cooker. Probably because the
short splined Warner and Rangers use no front cone and if the forward
bronze bushing is worn the hub can walk around (galling the rear
cone) without experiencing a loss of nut torque. Having witnessed
this, if I was McLucky's mechanic and I never saw that prop off, I
would be inclined to remove it as well.
As for finding the "crank time", it has never failed to be spot on
and repeatable to use a dead stop through a plug hole to find BDC and
set the degree wheel accordingly.
--- In fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Danielle"
wrote:
>
> Norbert,
>
> If you can find TDC on the back jug, you can time the mags using a
degree
> wheel on the spinner. Or, just use a TimeRight if you can get your
hands on
> one. I recommend the TimeRight but you have to use it on the front
cylinder
> because the tool interferes with the No. 2 cylinder fins. When the
No 1 in
> TDC is on the compression stroke, the No 6 is TDC on the exhaust
stroke.
> You have to keep this in mind and go another 360 degrees to do the
timing
> properly. If your mech can't figure this out, he ain't much of a
mech.
>
> I don't know of anyone who has one of the original factory degree
tools that
> used the arrow that's cast on the front of the case. But you can
get dead
> nuts on with any tool that finds TDC and the TimeRight is the best.
>
> You don't have to remove the prop.
>
> Ranger Mike
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Norbert J. Mc Luckie"
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 12:24 PM
> Subject: [fairchildclub] Timing the engine with new mags
>
>
> > I, recently, had my mags rebuilt and it is time to install
them on
> > my Ranger 440-C
> > My A&P thinks that we have to remove the prop in order to do the
timing
> > to the engine.
> > I don't want to do that unless it is absolutely necessary. What
is the
> > opinion of you experts, in the field? This is on a 1938 short-
nosed F-24.
> >
> > Norbert "Lucky" Mc Luckie 815 472 2523 Momence,
Illinois. cell
> > 305 942 7066
> > norbymac20@...
> >
> > Lucky
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]