Re: Emailed newsletter

An archive of all the messages posted in the old Fairchild Club Yahoo Group. It is not possible to start a new topic in this forum (please use one of the other forums for new threads), but you can continue to post on existing topics.
Jan P. Hedberg
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Mar 25, 2018 3:45 pm

F-24 electrical wiring problem

Post by Jan P. Hedberg »

'I am having some trouble reading the wiring diagram to what I fine on my firewall. There have been some modifications in the past. Can anyone offer some advice? Local mechanics just want Cessna to tell them what is correct.
J. Hedberg
81265

Sent from my iPad'
robert Etter
Posts: 234
Joined: Tue Feb 27, 2001 7:37 pm

Re: F-24 electrical wiring problem

Post by robert Etter »

' What is your issue?  I am in the final stages of my rebuild.  My biggest change is a Jasco Alternator, Circuit breakers versus fuses, new fuel gauges and sending unit, and wing tip strobes.  I figure that there is less than 50% of the Original airplane remaining,  a lot less.  I would say that the fuselage, one step and data plate is just about it.
Bob 775-482-9243 (use caller ID)
On ?Sunday?, ?March? ?25?, ?2018? ?03?:?45?:?10? ?PM? ?PDT, 'Jan P. Hedberg' jhed9253@aol.com [fairchildclub] wrote:


 
I am having some trouble reading the wiring diagram to what I fine on my firewall. There have been some modifications in the past. Can anyone offer some advice? Local mechanics just want Cessna to tell them what is correct.
J. Hedberg
81265

Sent from my iPad
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Jan P. Hedberg
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Mar 25, 2018 3:45 pm

Re: F-24 electrical wiring problem

Post by Jan P. Hedberg »

'Aircraft has master connector(relay), starter connector (relay), and an external power plug connector (relay). That means that besides the master switch and alternator switch, and started switch, there is still the Battery switch in the mag switch. I am getting a little confused if all of this is necessary. If the battery switch controls the master relay do I really need a master switch controlling the ??By the way. Good answer on the master brake cylinder. These airplanes were built in a factory with a bunch of different parts. Many of them were auto parts. Good stuff but it means you have to have a sense of humor and imagination when you are trying to fix them. I have a friend with a 24 that has master cylinders that look like they are out of a tractor.  Real big and ruff casting. It was built in 47 and they must have been running out of the good stuff.Any thoughts on wiring the relays. I don’t want to burn anything.Thanks for the help.Jan

Sent from my iPad
On Mar 26, 2018, at 3:38 PM, Robert Etter robertetter@ymail.com [fairchildclub] wrote:
 
What is your issue?  I am in the final stages of my rebuild.  My biggest change is a Jasco Alternator, Circuit breakers versus fuses, new fuel gauges and sending unit, and wing tip strobes.  I figure that there is less than 50% of the Original airplane remaining,  a lot less.  I would say that the fuselage, one step and data plate is just about it.
Bob 775-482-9243 (use caller ID)

On ?Sunday?, ?March? ?25?, ?2018? ?03?:?45?:?10? ?PM? ?PDT, 'Jan P. Hedberg' jhed9253@aol.com [fairchildclub] wrote:

 
I am having some trouble reading the wiring diagram to what I fine on my firewall. There have been some modifications in the past. Can anyone offer some advice? Local mechanics just want Cessna to tell them what is correct.
J. Hedberg
81265

Sent from my iPad

'
robert Etter
Posts: 234
Joined: Tue Feb 27, 2001 7:37 pm

Re: F-24 electrical wiring problem

Post by robert Etter »

' Well, looking at what you are asking, there is a lot more in your bucket than there is in mine.  Sounds like yours is a cross between a straight civilian and military model.  Mine never had external power.  The generator cut off was done with a double pole/double throw switch in the Master Switch location.  The first half was to turn on/off the DC power and the second half cut off 12 volts to the voltage regulator.
If you can find an original drawing, it would help.    1st - the positive terminal of the battery first goes to one side of the Master Solenoid (NAPA-24059) then the output side of the solenoid goes to one side of the starter solenoid (NAPA has this one) and the other side goes to the starter.  This first part is connect with the really heavy cable.   I am not sure what size it is.  The interconnects to get it to work are start at the solenoid with the 2 small terminals on it.  Both are only connected to the internal coil.  One of the small terminals is connect to the battery lead of the solenoid (via 18 gauge wire) to supply 12Volts to the coil.  The other small terminal is connect via another 18 gauge wire to carry the voltage through the firewall to the Master Switch.  From there, the 12volts goes through the Master Switch when it is operated to the "ON" position.   From there the 12 volts goes into the "B" terminal on the rear of the Magneto Master Switch.  I believe that is 2 "B" terminals.  The second "B" terminal is cross connected to "G" (ground).  You will need to have both switches, Master Switch "ON" and Magneto Master Switch NOT in the "OFF" position for the Master Solenoid to operate.  This will supply electrical power to everything.   For the starter to work, the small terminal on that solenoid, it should have 12 volts on it, is connect to one terminal on the Start Switch on the Instrument panel and the other terminal of the switch is connected to Ground.
How the auxiliary power is wired in, I could only guess.  How is this for a start?  I have a large drawing for what I did.  I will be an address to sent you a copy.
It is time for a glass of wine.  Even though it is below freezing outside.
Bob
On ?Monday?, ?March? ?26?, ?2018? ?06?:?45?:?18? ?PM? ?PDT, 'Jan P. Hedberg' jhed9253@aol.com [fairchildclub] wrote:


 
Aircraft has master connector(relay), starter connector (relay), and an external power plug connector (relay). That means that besides the master switch and alternator switch, and started switch, there is still the Battery switch in the mag switch. I am getting a little confused if all of this is necessary. If the battery switch controls the master relay do I really need a master switch controlling the ??By the way. Good answer on the master brake cylinder. These airplanes were built in a factory with a bunch of different parts. Many of them were auto parts. Good stuff but it means you have to have a sense of humor and imagination when you are trying to fix them. I have a friend with a 24 that has master cylinders that look like they are out of a tractor.  Real big and ruff casting. It was built in 47 and they must have been running out of the good stuff.Any thoughts on wiring the relays. I don’t want to burn anything.Thanks for the help.Jan

Sent from my iPad
On Mar 26, 2018, at 3:38 PM, Robert Etter robertetter@ymail.com [fairchildclub] wrote:

 
What is your issue?  I am in the final stages of my rebuild.  My biggest change is a Jasco Alternator, Circuit breakers versus fuses, new fuel gauges and sending unit, and wing tip strobes.  I figure that there is less than 50% of the Original airplane remaining,  a lot less.  I would say that the fuselage, one step and data plate is just about it.
Bob 775-482-9243 (use caller ID)

On ?Sunday?, ?March? ?25?, ?2018? ?03?:?45?:?10? ?PM? ?PDT, 'Jan P. Hedberg' jhed9253@aol.com [fairchildclub] wrote:

 
I am having some trouble reading the wiring diagram to what I fine on my firewall. There have been some modifications in the past. Can anyone offer some advice? Local mechanics just want Cessna to tell them what is correct.
J. Hedberg
81265

Sent from my iPad

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Jan P. Hedberg
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Mar 25, 2018 3:45 pm

Re: F-24 electrical wiring problem

Post by Jan P. Hedberg »

'Thank you for the help. This is great. It is supposed to be spring! Wine indeed.

Sent from my iPad
On Mar 26, 2018, at 8:24 PM, Robert Etter robertetter@ymail.com [fairchildclub] wrote:
 
Well, looking at what you are asking, there is a lot more in your bucket than there is in mine.  Sounds like yours is a cross between a straight civilian and military model.  Mine never had external power.  The generator cut off was done with a double pole/double throw switch in the Master Switch location.  The first half was to turn on/off the DC power and the second half cut off 12 volts to the voltage regulator.
If you can find an original drawing, it would help.    1st - the positive terminal of the battery first goes to one side of the Master Solenoid (NAPA-24059) then the output side of the solenoid goes to one side of the starter solenoid (NAPA has this one) and the other side goes to the starter.  This first part is connect with the really heavy cable.   I am not sure what size it is.  The interconnects to get it to work are start at the solenoid with the 2 small terminals on it.  Both are only connected to the internal coil.  One of the small terminals is connect to the battery lead of the solenoid (via 18 gauge wire) to supply 12Volts to the coil.  The other small terminal is connect via another 18 gauge wire to carry the voltage through the firewall to the Master Switch.  From there, the 12volts goes through the Master Switch when it is operated to the "ON" position.   From there the 12 volts goes into the "B" terminal on the rear of the Magneto Master Switch.  I believe that is 2 "B" terminals.  The second "B" terminal is cross connected to "G" (ground).  You will need to have both switches, Master Switch "ON" and Magneto Master Switch NOT in the "OFF" position for the Master Solenoid to operate.  This will supply electrical power to everything.   For the starter to work, the small terminal on that solenoid, it should have 12 volts on it, is connect to one terminal on the Start Switch on the Instrument panel and the other terminal of the switch is connected to Ground.
How the auxiliary power is wired in, I could only guess.  How is this for a start?  I have a large drawing for what I did.  I will be an address to sent you a copy.
It is time for a glass of wine.  Even though it is below freezing outside.
Bob

On ?Monday?, ?March? ?26?, ?2018? ?06?:?45?:?18? ?PM? ?PDT, 'Jan P. Hedberg' jhed9253@aol.com [fairchildclub] wrote:

 
Aircraft has master connector(relay), starter connector (relay), and an external power plug connector (relay). That means that besides the master switch and alternator switch, and started switch, there is still the Battery switch in the mag switch. I am getting a little confused if all of this is necessary. If the battery switch controls the master relay do I really need a master switch controlling the ??By the way. Good answer on the master brake cylinder. These airplanes were built in a factory with a bunch of different parts. Many of them were auto parts. Good stuff but it means you have to have a sense of humor and imagination when you are trying to fix them. I have a friend with a 24 that has master cylinders that look like they are out of a tractor.  Real big and ruff casting. It was built in 47 and they must have been running out of the good stuff.Any thoughts on wiring the relays. I don’t want to burn anything.Thanks for the help.Jan

Sent from my iPad
On Mar 26, 2018, at 3:38 PM, Robert Etter robertetter@ymail.com [fairchildclub] wrote:

 
What is your issue?  I am in the final stages of my rebuild.  My biggest change is a Jasco Alternator, Circuit breakers versus fuses, new fuel gauges and sending unit, and wing tip strobes.  I figure that there is less than 50% of the Original airplane remaining,  a lot less.  I would say that the fuselage, one step and data plate is just about it.
Bob 775-482-9243 (use caller ID)

On ?Sunday?, ?March? ?25?, ?2018? ?03?:?45?:?10? ?PM? ?PDT, 'Jan P. Hedberg' jhed9253@aol.com [fairchildclub] wrote:

 
I am having some trouble reading the wiring diagram to what I fine on my firewall. There have been some modifications in the past. Can anyone offer some advice? Local mechanics just want Cessna to tell them what is correct.
J. Hedberg
81265

Sent from my iPad


'
Jim higham
Posts: 29
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2010 9:22 am

Re: F-24 electrical wiring problem

Post by Jim higham »

'Many of the early 46 F24s had external power plugs, it was factory, mine does. I woud bypass the magneto switch battery position for battery contactor control, if the need arises to disconnect battery power in flight you have to shut the mags off to do so, put in a separate battery master switch. You can go to many sources to buy wiring, switches, contactors, etc... but NAPA is not one of them. The Feds have relaxed the regs for antiques but TSOd parts are still required, and you dont want to have to buy parts from the shop doing your annual because you went to NAPA. Jim HighamN81207 F24R46A-108

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
On Mon, Mar 26, 2018 at 10:32 PM, 'Jan P. Hedberg' jhed9253@aol.com [fairchildclub] wrote:  
Thank you for the help. This is great. It is supposed to be spring! Wine indeed.

Sent from my iPad
On Mar 26, 2018, at 8:24 PM, Robert Etter robertetter@ymail.com [fairchildclub] wrote:

 
Well, looking at what you are asking, there is a lot more in your bucket than there is in mine.  Sounds like yours is a cross between a straight civilian and military model.  Mine never had external power.  The generator cut off was done with a double pole/double throw switch in the Master Switch location.  The first half was to turn on/off the DC power and the second half cut off 12 volts to the voltage regulator.
If you can find an original drawing, it would help.    1st - the positive terminal of the battery first goes to one side of the Master Solenoid (NAPA-24059) then the output side of the solenoid goes to one side of the starter solenoid (NAPA has this one) and the other side goes to the starter.  This first part is connect with the really heavy cable.   I am not sure what size it is.  The interconnects to get it to work are start at the solenoid with the 2 small terminals on it.  Both are only connected to the internal coil.  One of the small terminals is connect to the battery lead of the solenoid (via 18 gauge wire) to supply 12Volts to the coil.  The other small terminal is connect via another 18 gauge wire to carry the voltage through the firewall to the Master Switch.  From there, the 12volts goes through the Master Switch when it is operated to the "ON" position.   From there the 12 volts goes into the "B" terminal on the rear of the Magneto Master Switch.  I believe that is 2 "B" terminals.  The second "B" terminal is cross connected to "G" (ground).  You will need to have both switches, Master Switch "ON" and Magneto Master Switch NOT in the "OFF" position for the Master Solenoid to operate.  This will supply electrical power to everything.   For the starter to work, the small terminal on that solenoid, it should have 12 volts on it, is connect to one terminal on the Start Switch on the Instrument panel and the other terminal of the switch is connected to Ground.
How the auxiliary power is wired in, I could only guess.  How is this for a start?  I have a large drawing for what I did.  I will be an address to sent you a copy.
It is time for a glass of wine.  Even though it is below freezing outside.
Bob

On ?Monday?, ?March? ?26?, ?2018? ?06?:?45?:?18? ?PM? ?PDT, 'Jan P. Hedberg' jhed9253@aol.com [fairchildclub] wrote:

 
Aircraft has master connector(relay), starter connector (relay), and an external power plug connector (relay). That means that besides the master switch and alternator switch, and started switch, there is still the Battery switch in the mag switch. I am getting a little confused if all of this is necessary. If the battery switch controls the master relay do I really need a master switch controlling the ??By the way. Good answer on the master brake cylinder. These airplanes were built in a factory with a bunch of different parts. Many of them were auto parts. Good stuff but it means you have to have a sense of humor and imagination when you are trying to fix them. I have a friend with a 24 that has master cylinders that look like they are out of a tractor.  Real big and ruff casting. It was built in 47 and they must have been running out of the good stuff.Any thoughts on wiring the relays. I don’t want to burn anything.Thanks for the help.Jan

Sent from my iPad
On Mar 26, 2018, at 3:38 PM, Robert Etter robertetter@ymail.com [fairchildclub] wrote:

 
What is your issue?  I am in the final stages of my rebuild.  My biggest change is a Jasco Alternator, Circuit breakers versus fuses, new fuel gauges and sending unit, and wing tip strobes.  I figure that there is less than 50% of the Original airplane remaining,  a lot less.  I would say that the fuselage, one step and data plate is just about it.
Bob 775-482-9243 (use caller ID)

On ?Sunday?, ?March? ?25?, ?2018? ?03?:?45?:?10? ?PM? ?PDT, 'Jan P. Hedberg' jhed9253@aol.com [fairchildclub] wrote:

 
I am having some trouble reading the wiring diagram to what I fine on my firewall. There have been some modifications in the past. Can anyone offer some advice? Local mechanics just want Cessna to tell them what is correct.
J. Hedberg
81265

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robert Etter
Posts: 234
Joined: Tue Feb 27, 2001 7:37 pm

Re: F-24 electrical wiring problem

Post by robert Etter »

' I guess I may have said it incorrectly.   The Master Solenoid, Master Switch, and Mag Switch are all in series.  If you were in flight and needed to kill the electrical. the Master Switch would disconnect the battery and shut off the generator in one shot.  At least, that was the way it was originally wired.  The worst thing for me would be is some had installed an over sized fuse in one of the circuits.   If you had to kill the motor and still wanted electrical, for radio and lights, put the Mag Switch in Battery position.
I am sure glad that I never flew my 24 at night.  The AD to replace the wire between the Master Solenoid and the DC Buss bar had never been replaced.  A18 gauge wire doesn't have a very high load carrying capacity.  Along with wiring upgrade, I replaced the fuses with circuit breakers.  It was easier said than done.  The 8 breakers in the center of the panel needed to be space no more than .090" apart, to allow for the OE switches.  It still left me enough room to install 2 more circuit breaker slightly outboard of the 2 bottom switches.
I had to use a switchable circuit breaker for the field voltage on the alternator.  I duplicated to OE fuse holder insert in shape and size with .080" Aluminum.  Had to...  The holes required for the Circuit breakers were smaller, except for the switchable one.
If I can get it out of my old computer,  I redrew the schematic.
Bob
On ?Wednesday?, ?March? ?28?, ?2018? ?09?:?44?:?10? ?AM? ?PDT, Jim Higham higham_jim@yahoo.com [fairchildclub] wrote:


 
Many of the early 46 F24s had external power plugs, it was factory, mine does. I woud bypass the magneto switch battery position for battery contactor control, if the need arises to disconnect battery power in flight you have to shut the mags off to do so, put in a separate battery master switch. You can go to many sources to buy wiring, switches, contactors, etc.... but NAPA is not one of them. The Feds have relaxed the regs for antiques but TSOd parts are still required, and you dont want to have to buy parts from the shop doing your annual because you went to NAPA. Jim HighamN81207 F24R46A-108

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On Mon, Mar 26, 2018 at 10:32 PM, 'Jan P. Hedberg' jhed9253@aol.com [fairchildclub] wrote:  
Thank you for the help. This is great. It is supposed to be spring! Wine indeed.

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On Mar 26, 2018, at 8:24 PM, Robert Etter robertetter@ymail.com [fairchildclub] wrote:

 
Well, looking at what you are asking, there is a lot more in your bucket than there is in mine.  Sounds like yours is a cross between a straight civilian and military model.  Mine never had external power.  The generator cut off was done with a double pole/double throw switch in the Master Switch location.  The first half was to turn on/off the DC power and the second half cut off 12 volts to the voltage regulator.
If you can find an original drawing, it would help.    1st - the positive terminal of the battery first goes to one side of the Master Solenoid (NAPA-24059) then the output side of the solenoid goes to one side of the starter solenoid (NAPA has this one) and the other side goes to the starter.  This first part is connect with the really heavy cable.   I am not sure what size it is.  The interconnects to get it to work are start at the solenoid with the 2 small terminals on it.  Both are only connected to the internal coil.  One of the small terminals is connect to the battery lead of the solenoid (via 18 gauge wire) to supply 12Volts to the coil.  The other small terminal is connect via another 18 gauge wire to carry the voltage through the firewall to the Master Switch.  From there, the 12volts goes through the Master Switch when it is operated to the "ON" position.   From there the 12 volts goes into the "B" terminal on the rear of the Magneto Master Switch.  I believe that is 2 "B" terminals.  The second "B" terminal is cross connected to "G" (ground).  You will need to have both switches, Master Switch "ON" and Magneto Master Switch NOT in the "OFF" position for the Master Solenoid to operate.  This will supply electrical power to everything.   For the starter to work, the small terminal on that solenoid, it should have 12 volts on it, is connect to one terminal on the Start Switch on the Instrument panel and the other terminal of the switch is connected to Ground.
How the auxiliary power is wired in, I could only guess.  How is this for a start?  I have a large drawing for what I did.  I will be an address to sent you a copy.
It is time for a glass of wine.  Even though it is below freezing outside.
Bob

On ?Monday?, ?March? ?26?, ?2018? ?06?:?45?:?18? ?PM? ?PDT, 'Jan P. Hedberg' jhed9253@aol.com [fairchildclub] wrote:

 
Aircraft has master connector(relay), starter connector (relay), and an external power plug connector (relay). That means that besides the master switch and alternator switch, and started switch, there is still the Battery switch in the mag switch. I am getting a little confused if all of this is necessary. If the battery switch controls the master relay do I really need a master switch controlling the ??By the way. Good answer on the master brake cylinder. These airplanes were built in a factory with a bunch of different parts. Many of them were auto parts. Good stuff but it means you have to have a sense of humor and imagination when you are trying to fix them. I have a friend with a 24 that has master cylinders that look like they are out of a tractor.  Real big and ruff casting. It was built in 47 and they must have been running out of the good stuff.Any thoughts on wiring the relays. I don’t want to burn anything.Thanks for the help.Jan

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On Mar 26, 2018, at 3:38 PM, Robert Etter robertetter@ymail.com [fairchildclub] wrote:

 
What is your issue?  I am in the final stages of my rebuild.  My biggest change is a Jasco Alternator, Circuit breakers versus fuses, new fuel gauges and sending unit, and wing tip strobes.  I figure that there is less than 50% of the Original airplane remaining,  a lot less.  I would say that the fuselage, one step and data plate is just about it.
Bob 775-482-9243 (use caller ID)

On ?Sunday?, ?March? ?25?, ?2018? ?03?:?45?:?10? ?PM? ?PDT, 'Jan P. Hedberg' jhed9253@aol.com [fairchildclub] wrote:

 
I am having some trouble reading the wiring diagram to what I fine on my firewall. There have been some modifications in the past. Can anyone offer some advice? Local mechanics just want Cessna to tell them what is correct.
J. Hedberg
81265

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Craig
Posts: 36
Joined: Thu Jul 08, 2004 12:04 am

Re: Emailed newsletter

Post by Craig »

'A quick follow up on the emailed newsletters. There were about a dozen
people that wished to convert to the email version. For those that had
contacted me prior to the latest issue, I did send them out to you, with
one exception. I have one person that their email provider had a problem
with the file, and I'm working to resolve that issue. There were a
couple that initiated a request after the latest issue went out in snail
mail, and I have not sent them copies yet. The file size ended up being
somewhat large and I am tying to resolve why it is and make it smaller.
I'll try and have copies out to those people over the upcoming weekend.

For those that were on the list, if you have not let me know that you
received the file and were able to open, please email me direct and I
will try again if I need to. Until I know that you can get the file and
open it, Mike will still be carrying you on the snail mail list.

If you do not get a quick answer from me, please give me a few days
before hitting me up again. I'm in the midst of trying to get numerous
things done out of town and I only have a few minutes every day to work
on emails.

Thanks for your understanding,
Craig Cantwell
cvcantwell@verizon.net'
Thomas Rood
Posts: 9
Joined: Sun Jul 19, 2015 6:03 pm

Re: Emailed newsletter

Post by Thomas Rood »

' Craig, I would much prefer the email version too, can you sign me up for it?
Thank you!
T
On Tuesday, April 3, 2018, 1:23:38 PM EDT, Craig cvcantwell@verizon.net [fairchildclub] wrote:


 


A quick follow up on the emailed newsletters. There were about a dozen
people that wished to convert to the email version. For those that had
contacted me prior to the latest issue, I did send them out to you, with
one exception. I have one person that their email provider had a problem
with the file, and I'm working to resolve that issue. There were a
couple that initiated a request after the latest issue went out in snail
mail, and I have not sent them copies yet. The file size ended up being
somewhat large and I am tying to resolve why it is and make it smaller.
I'll try and have copies out to those people over the upcoming weekend.

For those that were on the list, if you have not let me know that you
received the file and were able to open, please email me direct and I
will try again if I need to. Until I know that you can get the file and
open it, Mike will still be carrying you on the snail mail list.

If you do not get a quick answer from me, please give me a few days
before hitting me up again. I'm in the midst of trying to get numerous
things done out of town and I only have a few minutes every day to work
on emails.

Thanks for your understanding,
Craig Cantwell
cvcantwell@verizon.net
'
Elton Hanneman
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Aug 25, 2017 1:41 pm

Re: Emailed newsletter

Post by Elton Hanneman »

'







Ok sign me up top
Elton
 


From: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com [mailto:fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com]

Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2018 10:22 AM
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] Emailed newsletter


 
 






A quick follow up on the emailed newsletters. There were about a dozen
people that wished to convert to the email version. For those that had
contacted me prior to the latest issue, I did send them out to you, with
one exception. I have one person that their email provider had a problem
with the file, and I'm working to resolve that issue. There were a
couple that initiated a request after the latest issue went out in snail
mail, and I have not sent them copies yet. The file size ended up being
somewhat large and I am tying to resolve why it is and make it smaller.
I'll try and have copies out to those people over the upcoming weekend.

For those that were on the list, if you have not let me know that you
received the file and were able to open, please email me direct and I
will try again if I need to. Until I know that you can get the file and
open it, Mike will still be carrying you on the snail mail list.

If you do not get a quick answer from me, please give me a few days
before hitting me up again. I'm in the midst of trying to get numerous
things done out of town and I only have a few minutes every day to work
on emails.

Thanks for your understanding,
Craig Cantwell
cvcantwell@verizon.net






'
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