Re: Push-To-Talk Switch

tonylowe2 · Post by **tonylowe2** » Thu Mar 13, 2014 6:06 pm

'
I want to put a PTT switch on the top of the pilot-side stick knob on my F24. I'm sure someone here has done that before. How'd you do it? Can you recommend a switch? -- Been looking at the one from Sigtronics. Also, please let me know if there is a preferred wire routing to provide the neatest installation. Also, I really hate to booger up my original stick knobs with the necessary holes. Anybody got another stick knob or two to sacrifice to my adventure? Thanks for any help.

Tony Lowe N28522
'

Ellen Starr · Post by **Ellen Starr** » Thu Mar 13, 2014 9:02 pm

'Tony,My 24 has a micro switch on the forward side of the stick about 1.5 -2' below the knob. Took me a bit to get used to grasping the stick in a way not to engage the switch. Normally grasp it with the switch between the index and middle finger. Rather think the switch could not be higher on the stick because of insert in the top that receives the threads of the knob assembly.Just a thought.Roger Starr NC77630

On Thursday, March 13, 2014 5:06 PM, "lowea1@comcast.net" wrote:
I want to put a PTT switch on the top of the pilot-side stick knob on my F24. I'm sure someone here has done that before. How'd you do it? Can you recommend a switch? -- Been looking at the one from Sigtronics. Also, please let me know if there is a preferred wire routing to provide the neatest installation. Also, I really hate to booger up my original stick knobs with the necessary holes. Anybody got another stick knob or two to sacrifice to my adventure? Thanks for any help.
Tony Lowe N28522
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robert Etter · Post by **robert Etter** » Thu Mar 13, 2014 9:17 pm

' I am nearing completion of my "24", and I have all but resigned myself to putting the switch just below the cross member inside the top of the stick that you would screw the stick knob into. I have all but resigned my self to using miniature PTT on the front side of the stick, about 1" or less below the knob. I am a little worried about false keying of the transmitter with that location of a micro push buttom. An on/off switch beside the radio could interrupt the key line and solve that concern. I really want to follow the "KISS Principle". Keep it Simple Stupid if at all possible. I haven't, as yet, figured a good way to put a PTT through the knob. I thought of a way to re-attach the knob. I may just use my antique TPX-720 for the time being, and let the new owner figure out what he likes. All I want to do is fly again. Bob

On Thursday, March 13, 2014 5:06 PM, "lowea1@comcast.net" wrote:
I want to put a PTT switch on the top of the pilot-side stick knob on my F24. I'm sure someone here has done that before. How'd you do it? Can you recommend a switch? -- Been looking at the one from Sigtronics. Also, please let me know if there is a preferred wire routing to provide the neatest installation. Also, I really hate to booger up my original stick knobs with the necessary holes. Anybody got another stick knob or two to sacrifice to my adventure? Thanks for any help.
Tony Lowe N28522
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'

jnhedberg · Post by **jnhedberg** » Thu Mar 13, 2014 10:20 pm

'who talks?

-----Original Message-----
From: Ellen Starr
To: fairchildclub
Sent: Thu, Mar 13, 2014 8:02 pm
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] Push-To-Talk Switch

Tony, My 24 has a micro switch on the forward side of the stick about 1.5 -2' below the knob. Took me a bit to get used to grasping the stick in a way not to engage the switch. Normally grasp it with the switch between the index and middle finger. Rather think the switch could not be higher on the stick because of insert in the top that receives the threads of the knob assembly. Just a thought. Roger Starr NC77630

On Thursday, March 13, 2014 5:06 PM, "lowea1@comcast.net" wrote:
I want to put a PTT switch on the top of the pilot-side stick knob on my F24. I'm sure someone here has done that before. How'd you do it? Can you recommend a switch? -- Been looking at the one from Sigtronics. Also, please let me know if there is a preferred wire routing to provide the neatest installation. Also, I really hate to booger up my original stick knobs with the necessary holes. Anybody got another stick knob or two to sacrifice to my adventure? Thanks for any help.
Tony Lowe N28522

'

FJC · Post by **FJC** » Fri Mar 14, 2014 3:34 am

'Tony ,I have put a PTT micro switch in the top of the left hand stick. My original stick tops were ‘past it’ – all cracked and perished so I put Willys Jeep gear stick knobs on which were the same size and shape but black in colour. Had to rethread them to fit the stick top .I drilled a hole through the centre of the knob to take the micro switch snug fit (will have to dive through the paperwork to find what make it was) and then an angled hole that avoided the stick top ‘bolt’. Then screwed the knob on and marked the point where the angled hole met the plate with the bolt. Unscrewed the knob and drilled a hole in the plate to allow wire to pass through. Drilled hole in lower part of stick below the ‘Stick boot top’ to allow cables to exit the stick - fitted it with a grommet- easier to retrieve wires first and then slide grommet up later. Soldered wires to PTT switch – inserted wires through stick top – retrieved them through lower hole – eased them down carefully until PTT switch slid into stick top hole. It was all a bit fiddly but looks good. I will take some photos of the finished article and put them in my album – within the next couple of days. Hope this helps Frank UC61K – Argus IIIG- BCBL From: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com [mailto:fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jhed9253@aol.com
Sent: 14 March 2014 04:20
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] Push-To-Talk Switch who talks?

-----Original Message-----
From: Ellen Starr
To: fairchildclub
Sent: Thu, Mar 13, 2014 8:02 pm
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] Push-To-Talk Switch Tony,My 24 has a micro switch on the forward side of the stick about 1.5 -2' below the knob. Took me a bit to get used to grasping the stick in a way not to engage the switch. Normally grasp it with the switch between the index and middle finger. Rather think the switch could not be higher on the stick because of insert in the top that receives the threads of the knob assembly.Just a thought.Roger Starr NC77630 On Thursday, March 13, 2014 5:06 PM, "lowea1@comcast.net" wrote: I want to put a PTT switch on the top of the pilot-side stick knob on my F24. I'm sure someone here has done that before. How'd you do it? Can you recommend a switch? -- Been looking at the one from Sigtronics. Also, please let me know if there is a preferred wire routing to provide the neatest installation. Also, I really hate to booger up my original stick knobs with the necessary holes. Anybody got another stick knob or two to sacrifice to my adventure? Thanks for any help. Tony Lowe N28522 No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4336 / Virus Database: 3722/7194 - Release Date: 03/14/14'

tonylowe2 · Post by **tonylowe2** » Fri Mar 14, 2014 8:06 am

'
I'd be careful of using a switch on the side of the stick -- especially the front side. I think you'd key that a lot during the flare. Try to practice with such a situation before you commit. I have been using a regular Telex PTT, Velcro-wrap-mounted in the usual way to the stick, and operated with a finger, but finger operation is a bit of a pain. I've tried my middle and little fingers, but the best I have found is my index finger. I position the switch right under the knob on the right side (of the left stick), and leave my index finger "un-curled" so I don't key the mic. Still, it's none to good -- not a grip feel I like, and still hard to avoid an occasional inadvertent keying. And I don't like re-gripping to communicate when I'm in the flare on landing. Typically, it'll be a cross-windy day and Tower will ask me some question, and then if I don't answer within about a second or two (seriously!) I get more urgent queries or instructions. That's just the way it is at good old KFCM. With thumb keying, I could reply quickly independent of my death-grip on the stick. Also there is the coiled extendo-cord dangling between the stick and the panel, and that's kind of clubby, so I'd like to put the switch on top of the knob for thumb use and then route the cable in an out-of-the-way manner -- down the stick and probably under the floor, forward and then up to the intercom box.

Thanks,
Tony Lowe N28522
'

tonylowe2 · Post by **tonylowe2** » Fri Mar 14, 2014 8:09 am

'
Frank,
Thanks so much for your reply. Your method sounds like what I'm after. Looking forward to seeing any photos you post.

Cheers!
Tony Lowe N28522
'

Matthew & Patricia Banks · Fri Mar 14, 2014 10:23 am

'Hi All .... I have PTTs in the top of both of my sticks. The previous owner had installed a button in the side of the stick below the knob and I knew that was't going to work for me, so had to come up with something a little better. My 24 came with some ugly mismatched knobs when I bought it so that was motivation as well. I ended up purchasing two black knobs with the correct thread pitch inserts from McMaster Carr, I can probably find the P/N. They had a ring of knurling on the OD which I machined off and then polished the entire knob with fine sandpaper to give them a nice satin feel and appearance. I then bought two low profile red momentary push buttons from the electronincs store. I drilled a stepped counter bore in the top of the knobs so that the top of the button is flush with the surface of the knob. This prevents accidental activation when mauling the top of the stick. I tend to fly with my hand mostly on top of the knob. I use the tip of my thumb or index finger to press the button. The recess is large enough that it is still very easy to push the button when desired. Sort of along the lines of what FJC proposed, but a little different, I just center drilled the stud on the stick so that my wiring could pass through on the center line. This allowed me to spin the knob to thread it on without having issues of twisting the wire or trying to feed it through an offset hole. I was also concerned with some over zealous passenger turning the knob and cutting the wires if I didn't go through the center. I did use small gage sheathed two conductor wire from Spruce for the wiring. I went out the bottom of the sticks and created a suspended loop in the wires to allow control movement. I put heat shrink layers on the wires in any locations that could rub or chafe. The wires are so small that even if they somehow got tangled up in the controls you have a three foot long lever arm of the stick and could very easily break them. They have been in place for years and I have had zero issues. I love the look and function of them ... better than anything I have seen on other F24s so far. I have photos of the knob modification for the buttons and also the installation. I'll try to post some in my folder if I can find them. Matt N4263S From: "lowea1@comcast.net"
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 14, 2014 10:09 AM
Subject: RE: [fairchildclub] Push-To-Talk Switch

#ygrps-yiv-1825180675 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941 -- #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941 .ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941ygrp-photo-title{ clear:both;font-size:smaller;height:15px;overflow:hidden;text-align:center;width:75px;} #ygrps-yiv-1825180675 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941 div.ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941ygrp-photo{ background-position:center;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-color:white;border:1px solid black;height:62px;width:62px;} #ygrps-yiv-1825180675 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941 div.ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941photo-title a, #ygrps-yiv-1825180675 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941 div.ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941photo-title a:active, #ygrps-yiv-1825180675 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941 div.ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941photo-title a:hover, #ygrps-yiv-1825180675 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941 div.ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941photo-title a:visited { text-decoration:none;} #ygrps-yiv-1825180675 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941 div.ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941attach-table div.ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941attach-row { clear:both;} #ygrps-yiv-1825180675 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941 div.ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941attach-table div.ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941attach-row div { float:left;} #ygrps-yiv-1825180675 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941 p { clear:both;padding:15px 0 3px 0;overflow:hidden;} #ygrps-yiv-1825180675 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941 div.ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941ygrp-file { width:30px;} #ygrps-yiv-1825180675 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941 div.ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941attach-table div.ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941attach-row div div a { text-decoration:none;} #ygrps-yiv-1825180675 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941 div.ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941attach-table div.ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941attach-row div div span { font-weight:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-1825180675 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941 div.ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941ygrp-file-title { font-weight:bold;} #ygrps-yiv-1825180675 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941 -- #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941ygrp-mkp { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:10px 0;padding:0 10px;} #ygrps-yiv-1825180675 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941ygrp-mkp hr { border:1px solid #d8d8d8;} #ygrps-yiv-1825180675 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941hd { color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:700;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0;} #ygrps-yiv-1825180675 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941ygrp-mkp #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941ads { margin-bottom:10px;} #ygrps-yiv-1825180675 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941ygrp-mkp .ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941ad { padding:0 0;} #ygrps-yiv-1825180675 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941ygrp-mkp .ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941ad p { margin:0;} #ygrps-yiv-1825180675 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941 #ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941ygrp-mkp .ygrps-yiv-1825180675yiv8001090941ad a { color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;} #ygrps-yiv-1825180675

Frank, Thanks so much for your reply. Your method sounds like what I'm after. Looking forward to seeing any photos you post.
Cheers! Tony Lowe N28522

'

tonylowe2 · Post by **tonylowe2** » Fri Mar 14, 2014 11:51 am

'
Matt -- This is brilliant! Looking forward to the photos. Thanks a bundle.

So did you run those wires from the bottom of the stick across (under) the carpet and then up to a panel-mounted radio/intercom, or what?

Tony Lowe N28522
'

Matthew & Patricia Banks · Fri Mar 14, 2014 12:56 pm

'You would have to remove the floor boards to do it the way I did .. had them out making new ones anyway so for me is was the opportune time. The wires run along the frame tubes then up one side in front of the door post and behind the instrument panel to my intercom panel. I put connectors near the sticks just in case I had to remove the sticks one day or had to replace one of my push buttons. You could also do as was mentioned earlier and exit the stick above the floor and inside the boot. Drill a small hole in the stick and use a grommet. Plenty of room in the boot to have slack for control movement. Run the wires under the carpet. Should work just fine. I wasn't keen on drilling into the stick but I don't think it would ever be a strength issue. Matt
From: "lowea1@comcast.net"
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 14, 2014 1:51 PM
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] Push-To-Talk Switch

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Matt -- This is brilliant! Looking forward to the photos. Thanks a bundle.
So did you run those wires from the bottom of the stick across (under) the carpet and then up to a panel-mounted radio/intercom, or what?
Tony Lowe N28522

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