'Hi All,
thanks for adding me to your group.
And here I am with my first question:
We want to overhaul the master cylinders of the fairchild (F24R/UC61)because one of them is sticky. I've searched in the message archive and found out, that the master cylinders should be the same than a 1937's Chrysler with 1 1/4 inch diameter.
The label on our brakes isn't really readable anymore, but this info I was able to reproduce:
Wagner Electrics Corporation
D-87-3
FE-2146
Perhaps this does ring a bell?
I've asked an american car part dealer in germany, and he offered me an overhaul kit 1 1/4" for 1936-40 Chrysler car (not truck) and also told me that starting from 1941, the diameter shrinked down to 1".
Can anybody confirm that this is the right one? I also searched a little bit at NAPA and google and found following:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=UBP1_0247624119
And I found something about Raybestos MK33 in message archive, and found this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Raybestos-MK33-Professional-Master-Cylinder/dp/B000FG0J46
But these two differ a little bit. But which one do we have to take?
Thanks in advance,
Dirk'
Re: Thanks for adding & first question on F24R Brakes/Master cylinde
Re: Thanks for adding & first question on F24R Brakes/Master cylinde
'Hi Dirk
I used the NAPA #1 rebuild kit (that is the correct part number) on my F24W46 project with the 1-1/4" Wagner brake cylinders. You do need to pick and choose which parts of the kit to use. The kit provides a newer style check valve and shorter piston than the original brake parts, and you cannot use the new check valve with the old pistons. I believe there was a problem with the shorter piston and the fluid supply port from the reservoir.... I chose to use the new rubber seals only, and retained the old pistons and check valves. That way the internal parts are identical to the original application.
Good luck with your rebuild.
Rich Seifert
I used the NAPA #1 rebuild kit (that is the correct part number) on my F24W46 project with the 1-1/4" Wagner brake cylinders. You do need to pick and choose which parts of the kit to use. The kit provides a newer style check valve and shorter piston than the original brake parts, and you cannot use the new check valve with the old pistons. I believe there was a problem with the shorter piston and the fluid supply port from the reservoir.... I chose to use the new rubber seals only, and retained the old pistons and check valves. That way the internal parts are identical to the original application.
Good luck with your rebuild.
Rich Seifert
'----- Original Message -----
From: d b
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2012 6:28 AM
Subject: [fairchildclub] Thanks for adding & first question on F24R Brakes/Master cylinders
Hi All,
thanks for adding me to your group.
And here I am with my first question:
We want to overhaul the master cylinders of the fairchild (F24R/UC61)because one of them is sticky. I've searched in the message archive and found out, that the master cylinders should be the same than a 1937's Chrysler with 1 1/4 inch diameter.
The label on our brakes isn't really readable anymore, but this info I was able to reproduce:
Wagner Electrics Corporation
D-87-3
FE-2146
Perhaps this does ring a bell?
I've asked an american car part dealer in germany, and he offered me an overhaul kit 1 1/4" for 1936-40 Chrysler car (not truck) and also told me that starting from 1941, the diameter shrinked down to 1".
Can anybody confirm that this is the right one? I also searched a little bit at NAPA and google and found following:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=UBP1_0247624119
And I found something about Raybestos MK33 in message archive, and found this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Raybestos-MK33-Professional-Master-Cylinder/dp/B000FG0J46
But these two differ a little bit. But which one do we have to take?
Thanks in advance,
Dirk
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Restoring an 1937 F24H model Fairchild
Re: Thanks for adding & first question on F24R Brakes/Master cylinde
'Dirk,
After overhauling my master cylinders twice trying to get it right, I've found the Raybestos MK 1 kit (found at Napa stores) will go together the easiest and I believe its right for the F24 brake system. There are two Master cylinder kits mentioned in the achieves; The MK33 and MK1. Since you've asked for advice only I feel comfortable in recommending the Napa Raybestos MK 1 kit. An authority I am not. All you want is the rubber parts . You'll see there's a new check valve in the kit. I wouldn't use that if I were you. There probably wasn't one installed in the cylinder your taking apart. The blueprint of the cylinder clearly shows that one is not installed. The check valve is a good idea for car brakes, but by design it keep's residual pressure in the system after brake release, I don't think that's a good idea for Fairchild brakes. Pay particular attention too the two small holes in the cylinder (compensating port and fluid inlet port) both must be unobstructed. I personally use DOT 4 brake fluid and stay away from silicon products.
Have a nice day.
Tom
Hanford ,Ca.
After overhauling my master cylinders twice trying to get it right, I've found the Raybestos MK 1 kit (found at Napa stores) will go together the easiest and I believe its right for the F24 brake system. There are two Master cylinder kits mentioned in the achieves; The MK33 and MK1. Since you've asked for advice only I feel comfortable in recommending the Napa Raybestos MK 1 kit. An authority I am not. All you want is the rubber parts . You'll see there's a new check valve in the kit. I wouldn't use that if I were you. There probably wasn't one installed in the cylinder your taking apart. The blueprint of the cylinder clearly shows that one is not installed. The check valve is a good idea for car brakes, but by design it keep's residual pressure in the system after brake release, I don't think that's a good idea for Fairchild brakes. Pay particular attention too the two small holes in the cylinder (compensating port and fluid inlet port) both must be unobstructed. I personally use DOT 4 brake fluid and stay away from silicon products.
Have a nice day.
Tom
Hanford ,Ca.
'--- In fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com, "d b" wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> thanks for adding me to your group.
>
> And here I am with my first question:
>
> We want to overhaul the master cylinders of the fairchild (F24R/UC61)because one of them is sticky. I've searched in the message archive and found out, that the master cylinders should be the same than a 1937's Chrysler with 1 1/4 inch diameter.
>
> The label on our brakes isn't really readable anymore, but this info I was able to reproduce:
> Wagner Electrics Corporation
> D-87-3
> FE-2146
>
> Perhaps this does ring a bell?
>
> I've asked an american car part dealer in germany, and he offered me an overhaul kit 1 1/4" for 1936-40 Chrysler car (not truck) and also told me that starting from 1941, the diameter shrinked down to 1".
>
> Can anybody confirm that this is the right one? I also searched a little bit at NAPA and google and found following:
>
> http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=UBP1_0247624119
>
> And I found something about Raybestos MK33 in message archive, and found this one:
> http://www.amazon.com/Raybestos-MK33-Professional-Master-Cylinder/dp/B000FG0J46
>
> But these two differ a little bit. But which one do we have to take?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Dirk
>
-
robert Etter
- Posts: 234
- Joined: Tue Feb 27, 2001 7:37 pm
Re: Thanks for adding & first question on F24R Brakes/Master cylinde
'You can go back into the arhives of the Fairchild Club and you will see that I learned similar stuff like that which is mentioned below, and then some.
That NAPA kit that I used was originally identified as NAPA Kit #1. Then through time, other numbers were added to that. I was really happy with it. All the way down to even the dust boot.
Before you think about bleeding it/or adding brake fluid to the system, please make sure that you expander tubes are in good condition. You might even look into making a catch pan or a diaper pad to put under you master cylinder just in case you have spillage. I had to work through a bad expander tube, it wouldn't expand. Messy.
I wanted to ensure that all of the air is out of the Master Cylinder. I elevated the tail of the bird to the point that the front of the Master Cylinder was slightly lower than the rear.
Bob
775-482-9243
From: Tom
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 3, 2012 8:29 AM
Subject: [fairchildclub] Re: Thanks for adding & first question on F24R Brakes/Master cylinders
Dirk,
After overhauling my master cylinders twice trying to get it right, I've found the Raybestos MK 1 kit (found at Napa stores) will go together the easiest and I believe its right for the F24 brake system. There are two Master cylinder kits mentioned in the achieves; The MK33 and MK1. Since you've asked for advice only I feel comfortable in recommending the Napa Raybestos MK 1 kit. An authority I am not. All you want is the rubber parts . You'll see there's a new check valve in the kit. I wouldn't use that if I were you. There probably wasn't one installed in the cylinder your taking apart. The blueprint of the cylinder clearly shows that one is not installed. The check valve is a good idea for car brakes, but by design it keep's residual pressure in the system after brake release, I don't think that's a good idea for Fairchild brakes. Pay particular attention too the two small holes in the cylinder (compensating port and fluid inlet port) both must be
unobstructed. I personally use DOT 4 brake fluid and stay away from silicon products.
Have a nice day.
Tom
Hanford ,Ca.
That NAPA kit that I used was originally identified as NAPA Kit #1. Then through time, other numbers were added to that. I was really happy with it. All the way down to even the dust boot.
Before you think about bleeding it/or adding brake fluid to the system, please make sure that you expander tubes are in good condition. You might even look into making a catch pan or a diaper pad to put under you master cylinder just in case you have spillage. I had to work through a bad expander tube, it wouldn't expand. Messy.
I wanted to ensure that all of the air is out of the Master Cylinder. I elevated the tail of the bird to the point that the front of the Master Cylinder was slightly lower than the rear.
Bob
775-482-9243
From: Tom
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 3, 2012 8:29 AM
Subject: [fairchildclub] Re: Thanks for adding & first question on F24R Brakes/Master cylinders
Dirk,
After overhauling my master cylinders twice trying to get it right, I've found the Raybestos MK 1 kit (found at Napa stores) will go together the easiest and I believe its right for the F24 brake system. There are two Master cylinder kits mentioned in the achieves; The MK33 and MK1. Since you've asked for advice only I feel comfortable in recommending the Napa Raybestos MK 1 kit. An authority I am not. All you want is the rubber parts . You'll see there's a new check valve in the kit. I wouldn't use that if I were you. There probably wasn't one installed in the cylinder your taking apart. The blueprint of the cylinder clearly shows that one is not installed. The check valve is a good idea for car brakes, but by design it keep's residual pressure in the system after brake release, I don't think that's a good idea for Fairchild brakes. Pay particular attention too the two small holes in the cylinder (compensating port and fluid inlet port) both must be
unobstructed. I personally use DOT 4 brake fluid and stay away from silicon products.
Have a nice day.
Tom
Hanford ,Ca.
'--- In mailto:fairchildclub%40yahoogroups.com, "d b" wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> thanks for adding me to your group.
>
> And here I am with my first question:
>
> We want to overhaul the master cylinders of the fairchild (F24R/UC61)because one of them is sticky. I've searched in the message archive and found out, that the master cylinders should be the same than a 1937's Chrysler with 1 1/4 inch diameter.
>
> The label on our brakes isn't really readable anymore, but this info I was able to reproduce:
> Wagner Electrics Corporation
> D-87-3
> FE-2146
>
> Perhaps this does ring a bell?
>
> I've asked an american car part dealer in germany, and he offered me an overhaul kit 1 1/4" for 1936-40 Chrysler car (not truck) and also told me that starting from 1941, the diameter shrinked down to 1".
>
> Can anybody confirm that this is the right one? I also searched a little bit at NAPA and google and found following:
>
> http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=UBP1_0247624119
>
> And I found something about Raybestos MK33 in message archive, and found this one:
> http://www.amazon.com/Raybestos-MK33-Professional-Master-Cylinder/dp/B000FG0J46
>
> But these two differ a little bit. But which one do we have to take?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Dirk
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]