Re: Good readable Cabin Door Skeleton Dwg. needed

[Seifert]

'Does anyone in the club have a good readable Cabin Door Skeleton Drawing #444402 available. I know there is a drawing file on the CD but my copy is unreadable. I will happly pay to have it reproduced and shipped.
Thank you.
Rich Seifert

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]'

[robert Etter]

'I am not in a position to help right now, I am getting ready to go to work.  I have a bare door frame (good as pattern).  The only thing that I can say, a drawing will be good to get you into the ball park when it come to reconstructing a door, but I rebuilt mine on a heavy piece of plywood; the inside door surface is flat.  As I remember the outer frame is 3/4" solid spruce on the top, front, and bottom member and the rear was 1".  Noting the problems with the rear part of the door frame, I cheated.  I laminated the 3/4" with 1/8" plywood (front & read) to make 1".  This solved the splitting that I saw in the rear door member.  Even Factory New unused doors (40 year Old) were splitting around the door latch.  The other thing is, build the door to match the door skin.  Lay up a form on the plywood, allow a little room for the upholstery around the top of the door.  The worst case is you may need to cut a groove around the top of the door to all
for the upholstery to fit under the edge of the door skin without stressing it.
New window channel is available, with aluminum backing.  Easy to work.  You may need to shim the channel a bit with 1/16" strips of plywood.
 
Bob 


________________________________
From: Richard Seifert
To: Fairchild Club
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2011 1:36 PM
Subject: [fairchildclub] Good readable Cabin Door Skeleton Dwg. needed


 
Does anyone in the club have a good readable Cabin Door Skeleton Drawing #444402 available. I know there is a drawing file on the CD but my copy is unreadable. I will happly pay to have it reproduced and shipped.
Thank you.
Rich Seifert

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]'

[robert Etter]

'I know that may be others out there that are rebuilding doors. 
There is one of many minor detail that is good to know.  The flat head screws that were used on the hinges originally are not the same as what you buy today.  The heads on the screws are larger than they are today.  They will pull right through the holes in the hinges.   Either refinish the old ones, or get creative.  I reshaped some thin stainless washers to match the head on the new bolt's head.  If I remember correctly, they (the washer) were the next size smaller than the actual bolt size, then I used rivet squeezer with counter sink dies for the proper bolt size, then gave them a squeeze.  The die will enlarge the hole just fine. 
At the time and place, that was the best that I could come up with.  It is something that you should be aware of.
Bob


________________________________
From: Robert Etter
To: "fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com"
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2011 7:08 PM
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] Good readable Cabin Door Skeleton Dwg. needed


 
I am not in a position to help right now, I am getting ready to go to work.  I have a bare door frame (good as pattern).  The only thing that I can say, a drawing will be good to get you into the ball park when it come to reconstructing a door, but I rebuilt mine on a heavy piece of plywood; the inside door surface is flat.  As I remember the outer frame is 3/4" solid spruce on the top, front, and bottom member and the rear was 1".  Noting the problems with the rear part of the door frame, I cheated.  I laminated the 3/4" with 1/8" plywood (front & read) to make 1".  This solved the splitting that I saw in the rear door member.  Even Factory New unused doors (40 year Old) were splitting around the door latch.  The other thing is, build the door to match the door skin.  Lay up a form on the plywood, allow a little room for the upholstery around the top of the door.  The worst case is you may need to cut a groove around the top of the door to all
for the upholstery to fit under the edge of the door skin without stressing it.
New window channel is available, with aluminum backing.  Easy to work.  You may need to shim the channel a bit with 1/16" strips of plywood.
 
Bob 

________________________________
From: Richard Seifert
To: Fairchild Club
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2011 1:36 PM
Subject: [fairchildclub] Good readable Cabin Door Skeleton Dwg. needed

 
Does anyone in the club have a good readable Cabin Door Skeleton Drawing #444402 available. I know there is a drawing file on the CD but my copy is unreadable. I will happly pay to have it reproduced and shipped.
Thank you.
Rich Seifert

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]'

[Seifert]

'Thanks for the reply Bob.
Yes; I figured the drawing was only good for a backup. My doors are not flat on the inside, one edge was shaved off some, and the sills were modified some at their attach to the Fuselage frame. These modifications have led me to think the doors were made as an assembly, on the bench, independent of the fuselage, then the sills and door was made to fit at final assembly. However the skins, being formed sheet metal are usually made to precise dimensions in quantity, so I think the door frames were made in a Jig as you suggested; so I plan to do the same thing there. The drawing should have the dimensions I need for the jig.
Your idea about using plywood to reinforce the frames is a good one and I have used it in the past.
Thanks Bob
Rich

----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Etter
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2011 7:08 PM
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] Good readable Cabin Door Skeleton Dwg. needed



I am not in a position to help right now, I am getting ready to go to work. I have a bare door frame (good as pattern). The only thing that I can say, a drawing will be good to get you into the ball park when it come to reconstructing a door, but I rebuilt mine on a heavy piece of plywood; the inside door surface is flat. As I remember the outer frame is 3/4" solid spruce on the top, front, and bottom member and the rear was 1". Noting the problems with the rear part of the door frame, I cheated. I laminated the 3/4" with 1/8" plywood (front & read) to make 1". This solved the splitting that I saw in the rear door member. Even Factory New unused doors (40 year Old) were splitting around the door latch. The other thing is, build the door to match the door skin. Lay up a form on the plywood, allow a little room for the upholstery around the top of the door. The worst case is you may need to cut a groove around the top of the door to all
for the upholstery to fit under the edge of the door skin without stressing it.
New window channel is available, with aluminum backing. Easy to work. You may need to shim the channel a bit with 1/16" strips of plywood.

Bob

________________________________
From: Richard Seifert
To: Fairchild Club
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2011 1:36 PM
Subject: [fairchildclub] Good readable Cabin Door Skeleton Dwg. needed


Does anyone in the club have a good readable Cabin Door Skeleton Drawing #444402 available. I know there is a drawing file on the CD but my copy is unreadable. I will happly pay to have it reproduced and shipped.
Thank you.
Rich Seifert

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

'

[Seifert]

'Good info Bob.
Thanks

----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Etter
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2011 5:16 PM
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] Good readable Cabin Door Skeleton Dwg. needed



I know that may be others out there that are rebuilding doors.
There is one of many minor detail that is good to know. The flat head screws that were used on the hinges originally are not the same as what you buy today. The heads on the screws are larger than they are today. They will pull right through the holes in the hinges. Either refinish the old ones, or get creative. I reshaped some thin stainless washers to match the head on the new bolt's head. If I remember correctly, they (the washer) were the next size smaller than the actual bolt size, then I used rivet squeezer with counter sink dies for the proper bolt size, then gave them a squeeze. The die will enlarge the hole just fine.
At the time and place, that was the best that I could come up with. It is something that you should be aware of.
Bob

________________________________
From: Robert Etter
To: "fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com"
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2011 7:08 PM
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] Good readable Cabin Door Skeleton Dwg. needed


I am not in a position to help right now, I am getting ready to go to work. I have a bare door frame (good as pattern). The only thing that I can say, a drawing will be good to get you into the ball park when it come to reconstructing a door, but I rebuilt mine on a heavy piece of plywood; the inside door surface is flat. As I remember the outer frame is 3/4" solid spruce on the top, front, and bottom member and the rear was 1". Noting the problems with the rear part of the door frame, I cheated. I laminated the 3/4" with 1/8" plywood (front & read) to make 1". This solved the splitting that I saw in the rear door member. Even Factory New unused doors (40 year Old) were splitting around the door latch. The other thing is, build the door to match the door skin. Lay up a form on the plywood, allow a little room for the upholstery around the top of the door. The worst case is you may need to cut a groove around the top of the door to all
for the upholstery to fit under the edge of the door skin without stressing it.
New window channel is available, with aluminum backing. Easy to work. You may need to shim the channel a bit with 1/16" strips of plywood.

Bob

________________________________
From: Richard Seifert
To: Fairchild Club
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2011 1:36 PM
Subject: [fairchildclub] Good readable Cabin Door Skeleton Dwg. needed


Does anyone in the club have a good readable Cabin Door Skeleton Drawing #444402 available. I know there is a drawing file on the CD but my copy is unreadable. I will happly pay to have it reproduced and shipped.
Thank you.
Rich Seifert

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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