Dick Russell, former owner, N81229
Fairchild Club eMail List
Messages In This Digest (4 Messages)
1a.
Hayes Brakes From: craigroads
1b.
Re: Hayes Brakes From: Herb Carper
1c.
Re: Hayes Brakes From: John Ellis
1d.
Re: Hayes Brakes From: sr14572@yahoo.com
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Messages
1a.
Hayes Brakes
Posted by: "craigroads" craig31756@aol.com craigroads
Sat Jun 5, 2010 3:41 pm (PDT)
I am looking for some advice from the group. I purchased new brake blocks from Fresno, and found that I can not reinstall the brake assembly into the wheel casting due to clearance. I suspect that the expander tube has swelled as we have been using DOT3 for years. I have a second spare Hayes Brake set. The new brake blocks fit on the second set just fine, but found I have a fluid leak on one of the tube stems where it fits into the nozzel conection. The leak is from a failed rubber nozzle packing. Tried some "O" rings from NAPA as a substitute for the rubber nozzle packing but way too big.
Is there advice as to how to replace/substitute the rubber nozzle packing? That would be my first choice. Or should I go find someone to try and turn the blocks down for me?
p.s. I have been seeing the comments about master brake cylinders of late. We had our master cylinders bored and sleeved in the mid 90's and they work great.
Craig Stone
F24R46 N81204
Renton, WA
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Messages in this topic (8)
1b.
Re: Hayes Brakes
Posted by: "Herb Carper" hcarper@sbcglobal.net hjcarper
Sat Jun 5, 2010 5:57 pm (PDT)
Hi Craig,
I experienced the same problem of no clearance with both wheels with new brake blocks. However, I had installed new old stock expander tubes so it was not swelled tubes which caused the problem. I think that the blocks were manufactured a littlle too thick so that they could be turned to fit. I had my brake drums turned to true them up before I started trying to install the new brake blocks.
Not being able to find a brake shoe arcing machine, I turned the blocks by hand using an 80 grit sandpaper glued on a flat board. With the blocks installed in the frames I rotated the assembly with while moving it along the sandpaper, trying to take off an equal amount of material all the way around the circumference. Every now and then I would see if it fit in the wheel. I didn't want to take too much off the blocks. I quit when I had about 0.010 in. clearance between the blocks and the drums. The brakes have worked fine for about a year on my PT-19A.
I also had the problem of leaking at the nozzle where the packing gland is installed. I am using DOT 5 which is worse than gasoline as far as finding places to leak is concerned. Not at the same time, but I had both glands leak which soaked all the blocks with brake fluid. I managed to clean and reinstall them and they have worked fine since.
I made my own packing glands from some rubber tubing which I had. I don't know where or when I got it, but the ID and OD were just right, and they have worked fine.
To stop leaks with the DOT 5, I coated all surfaces of the glands, the threads of the packing gland nut, and the flares and threads of all fittings in the brake lines with Permatex High-Temperature Thread Sealant. It's been almost a year now and I have had no leaks at the glands or fittings.
I have had another problem however. I am using Stratoflex hose for the flex lines at the landing gear, and after about six or nine months they started leaking the DOT5 all along the hose,sort of like a garden soaker hose. If you or anyone has found a hose material that will hold up with DOT 5 I would appreciate knowing about it.
Herbie Carper
PT-19A, NC50489
Uvalde,Texas
'--- On Sat, 6/5/10, craigroads wrote:
From: craigroads
Subject: [fairchildclub] Hayes Brakes
To: fairchildclub@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Saturday, June 5, 2010, 5:39 PM
I am looking for some advice from the group. I purchased new brake blocks from Fresno, and found that I can not reinstall the brake assembly into the wheel casting due to clearance. I suspect that the expander tube has swelled as we have been using DOT3 for years. I have a second spare Hayes Brake set. The new brake blocks fit on the second set just fine, but found I have a fluid leak on one of the tube stems where it fits into the nozzel conection. The leak is from a failed rubber nozzle packing. Tried some "O" rings from NAPA as a substitute for the rubber nozzle packing but way too big.
Is there advice as to how to replace/substitute the rubber nozzle packing? That would be my first choice. Or should I go find someone to try and turn the blocks down for me?
p.s. I have been seeing the comments about master brake cylinders of late. We had our master cylinders bored and sleeved in the mid 90's and they work great.
Craig Stone
F24R46 N81204
Renton, WA
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Messages in this topic (8)
1c.
Re: Hayes Brakes
Posted by: "John Ellis" johnee35@att.net johnee35@att.net
Sun Jun 6, 2010 6:49 am (PDT)
I used Aeroquip hose ( MIL-H-8794). Been on PT-19 about 10 years using Dot 5,
never had a leak.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Herb Carper"
To:
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2010 7:57 PM
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] Hayes Brakes
Hi Craig,
I experienced the same problem of no clearance with both wheels with new
brake blocks. However, I had installed new old stock expander tubes so it
was not swelled tubes which caused the problem. I think that the blocks were
manufactured a littlle too thick so that they could be turned to fit. I had
my brake drums turned to true them up before I started trying to install the
new brake blocks.
Not being able to find a brake shoe arcing machine, I turned the blocks by
hand using an 80 grit sandpaper glued on a flat board. With the blocks
installed in the frames I rotated the assembly with while moving it along
the sandpaper, trying to take off an equal amount of material all the way
around the circumference. Every now and then I would see if it fit in the
wheel. I didn't want to take too much off the blocks. I quit when I had
about 0.010 in. clearance between the blocks and the drums. The brakes have
worked fine for about a year on my PT-19A.
I also had the problem of leaking at the nozzle where the packing gland is
installed. I am using DOT 5 which is worse than gasoline as far as finding
places to leak is concerned. Not at the same time, but I had both glands
leak which soaked all the blocks with brake fluid. I managed to clean and
reinstall them and they have worked fine since.
I made my own packing glands from some rubber tubing which I had. I don't
know where or when I got it, but the ID and OD were just right, and they
have worked fine.
To stop leaks with the DOT 5, I coated all surfaces of the glands, the
threads of the packing gland nut, and the flares and threads of all fittings
in the brake lines with Permatex High-Temperature Thread Sealant. It's been
almost a year now and I have had no leaks at the glands or fittings.
I have had another problem however. I am using Stratoflex hose for the flex
lines at the landing gear, and after about six or nine months they started
leaking the DOT5 all along the hose,sort of like a garden soaker hose. If
you or anyone has found a hose material that will hold up with DOT 5 I would
appreciate knowing about it.
Herbie Carper
PT-19A, NC50489
Uvalde,Texas
--- On Sat, 6/5/10, craigroads wrote:
From: craigroads
Subject: [fairchildclub] Hayes Brakes
To: fairchildclub@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Saturday, June 5, 2010, 5:39 PM
I am looking for some advice from the group. I purchased new brake blocks
from Fresno, and found that I can not reinstall the brake assembly into the
wheel casting due to clearance. I suspect that the expander tube has swelled
as we have been using DOT3 for years. I have a second spare Hayes Brake set.
The new brake blocks fit on the second set just fine, but found I have a
fluid leak on one of the tube stems where it fits into the nozzel conection.
The leak is from a failed rubber nozzle packing. Tried some "O" rings from
NAPA as a substitute for the rubber nozzle packing but way too big.
Is there advice as to how to replace/substitute the rubber nozzle packing?
That would be my first choice. Or should I go find someone to try and turn
the blocks down for me?
p.s. I have been seeing the comments about master brake cylinders of late.
We had our master cylinders bored and sleeved in the mid 90's and they work
great.
Craig Stone
F24R46 N81204
Renton, WA
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------ --------- --------- ------
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Messages in this topic (8)
1d.
Re: Hayes Brakes
Posted by: "sr14572@yahoo.com" sr14572@yahoo.com sr14572
Sun Jun 6, 2010 7:01 am (PDT)
How big of a problem are the brakes on the 19 and 26. I had airwheels on my sr-5 and when they gave up the ghost, I put UC-78 wheels and brakes on it with no problems. From reading the posts, and being new to the 19 & 26, is this something I should research more?
____________ _________ _________ __
From: John Ellis
To: fairchildclub@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Sun, June 6, 2010 9:49:33 AM
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] Hayes Brakes
I used Aeroquip hose ( MIL-H-8794). Been on PT-19 about 10 years using Dot 5,
never had a leak.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Herb Carper"
To:
Sent: Saturday, June 05, 2010 7:57 PM
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] Hayes Brakes
Hi Craig,
I experienced the same problem of no clearance with both wheels with new
brake blocks. However, I had installed new old stock expander tubes so it
was not swelled tubes which caused the problem. I think that the blocks were
manufactured a littlle too thick so that they could be turned to fit. I had
my brake drums turned to true them up before I started trying to install the
new brake blocks.
Not being able to find a brake shoe arcing machine, I turned the blocks by
hand using an 80 grit sandpaper glued on a flat board. With the blocks
installed in the frames I rotated the assembly with while moving it along
the sandpaper, trying to take off an equal amount of material all the way
around the circumference. Every now and then I would see if it fit in the
wheel. I didn't want to take too much off the blocks. I quit when I had
about 0.010 in. clearance between the blocks and the drums. The brakes have
worked fine for about a year on my PT-19A.
I also had the problem of leaking at the nozzle where the packing gland is
installed. I am using DOT 5 which is worse than gasoline as far as finding
places to leak is concerned. Not at the same time, but I had both glands
leak which soaked all the blocks with brake fluid. I managed to clean and
reinstall them and they have worked fine since.
I made my own packing glands from some rubber tubing which I had. I don't
know where or when I got it, but the ID and OD were just right, and they
have worked fine.
To stop leaks with the DOT 5, I coated all surfaces of the glands, the
threads of the packing gland nut, and the flares and threads of all fittings
in the brake lines with Permatex High-Temperature Thread Sealant. It's been
almost a year now and I have had no leaks at the glands or fittings.
I have had another problem however. I am using Stratoflex hose for the flex
lines at the landing gear, and after about six or nine months they started
leaking the DOT5 all along the hose,sort of like a garden soaker hose. If
you or anyone has found a hose material that will hold up with DOT 5 I would
appreciate knowing about it.
Herbie Carper
PT-19A, NC50489
Uvalde,Texas
--- On Sat, 6/5/10, craigroads wrote:
From: craigroads
Subject: [fairchildclub] Hayes Brakes
To: fairchildclub@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Saturday, June 5, 2010, 5:39 PM
I am looking for some advice from the group. I purchased new brake blocks
from Fresno, and found that I can not reinstall the brake assembly into the
wheel casting due to clearance. I suspect that the expander tube has swelled
as we have been using DOT3 for years. I have a second spare Hayes Brake set.
The new brake blocks fit on the second set just fine, but found I have a
fluid leak on one of the tube stems where it fits into the nozzel conection.
The leak is from a failed rubber nozzle packing. Tried some "O" rings from
NAPA as a substitute for the rubber nozzle packing but way too big.
Is there advice as to how to replace/substitute the rubber nozzle packing?
That would be my first choice. Or should I go find someone to try and turn
the blocks down for me?
p.s. I have been seeing the comments about master brake cylinders of late.
We had our master cylinders bored and sleeved in the mid 90's and they work
great.
Craig Stone
F24R46 N81204
Renton, WA
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------ --------- --------- ------
Yahoo! Groups Links
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Messages in this topic (8)
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