'Thank you all for the helpful feedback on my tail wheel problem.
Finally got the wheel apart. The valve stem is vulcanized onto the tube, offset from the center, and straight, but too long. A half inch shorter would be great. The tube looks like it was healthy, but it no longer is after my crude removal strategy. It wasn't the proper one anyway, so I'm ordering a replacement. Both banaire.com and Dresser have what look like appropriate ones on their websites. I'll talk with them before ordering.
Getting the tire separated from the hub was a problem. There's gotta be a simpler way. If someone has some hits on assembly/disassembly that would be appreciated.
My wheel did not have a cover plate for the valve stem side. But the hub does have a grove around the inside edge of the hub where the outside diameter of a cover plate would go. Fabricating a cover plate with valve access hole looks pretty straightforward. I'm not sure about how to come up with a snap ring yet.
Jim Long ? I'll be glad to take some photos of the hub and wheel when I get things cleaned up, though the hub looks like its been through some hard times.
Again - thank you all for you help. It is greatly appreciated. Actually, this is exactly what I've found to be so good about this news group.
Charles Mueller'
Re: tail wheel problem update
Re: tail wheel problem update
'The Snap ring on many tail wheels holding the domed cover is a piece of stiff wire formed into a circle with a little bump on the end to aid in removal.
Cy Galley - Chair, AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A service project of EAA Chapter 75 since 1963
www.eaa75.com
Cy Galley - Chair, AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A service project of EAA Chapter 75 since 1963
www.eaa75.com
'----- Original Message -----
From: ccmueller001
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 2:10 PM
Subject: [fairchildclub] tail wheel problem update
Thank you all for the helpful feedback on my tail wheel problem.
Finally got the wheel apart. The valve stem is vulcanized onto the tube, offset from the center, and straight, but too long. A half inch shorter would be great. The tube looks like it was healthy, but it no longer is after my crude removal strategy. It wasn't the proper one anyway, so I'm ordering a replacement. Both banaire.com and Dresser have what look like appropriate ones on their websites. I'll talk with them before ordering.
Getting the tire separated from the hub was a problem. There's gotta be a simpler way. If someone has some hits on assembly/disassembly that would be appreciated.
My wheel did not have a cover plate for the valve stem side. But the hub does have a grove around the inside edge of the hub where the outside diameter of a cover plate would go. Fabricating a cover plate with valve access hole looks pretty straightforward. I'm not sure about how to come up with a snap ring yet.
Jim Long - I'll be glad to take some photos of the hub and wheel when I get things cleaned up, though the hub looks like its been through some hard times.
Again - thank you all for you help. It is greatly appreciated. Actually, this is exactly what I've found to be so good about this news group.
Charles Mueller
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
-
danMichael
- Posts: 109
- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2001 4:03 pm
Re: tail wheel problem update
'Charles:
'> Getting the tire separated from the hub was a problem. There's gotta
> be a simpler way. If someone has some hits on assembly/disassembly
> that would be appreciated.
On Dec 10, 2009, at 10:35 PM, Cy Galley wrote:
> The Snap ring on many tail wheels holding the domed cover is a piece
> of stiff wire formed into a circle with a little bump on the end to
> aid in removal.
What was the specific problem you had getting the tire off? I assume
this is a split wheel. This is how I disassemble mine (at least from
memory).
First deflate the tube. I find it easier to unseat the tire bead
before splitting the wheel. You can use a tire iron, but Ive had good
success with a piece of 2 x 4 that I rest on the side of the tire
right up to the edge of the rim (I lay the wheel on some scrap carpet
to avoid scratches). By stepping on the 2 x 4 with one foot and the
opposite side of the tire with the other, the bead of the tire gets
pushed into the well. I flip the wheel over and do the other bead.
Once the bead is unseated, it should be easy to slide the wheel half
with the the wire lock ring recess toward the other half (which
includes the wheel center). If there is some corrrosion, try tapping
gently with a rubber mallet around the wheel half. If it cocks, it
wont slide. Once slid inwards a bit, the lock ring is exposed and you
can remove it easily. After removing the lock ring, you can then
slide the wheel halves apart, and the tire and tube will be free.
Assembly should be straightforward once youve disassembled it.
Good luck.
:Dan Michael
:NC81323
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
-
ccmueller001
- Posts: 72
- Joined: Sat Feb 23, 2002 4:27 pm
Re: tail wheel problem update
'
To remove the tire I deflated the tube, unseated the tire from the rim on both sides, removed the wire locking ring then removed the small rim half from the larger opposite half. So far so good and this was pretty easy.
As the tire and tube was moved toward the smaller side of the (now partial) rim the tube's inner surface hung up on the area where the removable rim portion had been seated. Seems like I should have left the tube seated at the smallest diameter of the rim and worked the tire over the tube there. Then the tire would have been easily removed and the tube could have been stretched over the remaining side of the hub. This, of course, is with 20/20 hindsight.
However - once the tube was stretched onto the area where the removable part of the rim had been seated, I nicked the tube trying to return it to its original position. Not willing to trust the tube in further service I slit the tube to remove it. So now I have all the pieces and am seeking a replacement tube.
I've talked with the folks at Dresser and at banaire.com. Their tubes have the 1 1/2" long stem that I started with which won't help. If I can find one with a 1" stem that would work great. So far no luck on finding that.
Two options that seem open now: use the adapter rings offered by www.russaircraft.com to convert the 10 SC wheels to the much more common 10x4 tube and tire, or find a shorter valve stem that can be vulcanized/glued onto a replacement tube for the 10 SC tire and rim.
Other suggestions received are: bend the brass tube that forms the valve stem - but keeping the stem kink free and still able to accept a valve core looks challenging, and build up the inside of the rim around the stem hole so only one inch of the valve stem with protrude thru the rim. This latter idea seems doable.'
Hi All,>
> What was the specific problem you had getting the tire off? I assume
> this is a split wheel. T
To remove the tire I deflated the tube, unseated the tire from the rim on both sides, removed the wire locking ring then removed the small rim half from the larger opposite half. So far so good and this was pretty easy.
As the tire and tube was moved toward the smaller side of the (now partial) rim the tube's inner surface hung up on the area where the removable rim portion had been seated. Seems like I should have left the tube seated at the smallest diameter of the rim and worked the tire over the tube there. Then the tire would have been easily removed and the tube could have been stretched over the remaining side of the hub. This, of course, is with 20/20 hindsight.
However - once the tube was stretched onto the area where the removable part of the rim had been seated, I nicked the tube trying to return it to its original position. Not willing to trust the tube in further service I slit the tube to remove it. So now I have all the pieces and am seeking a replacement tube.
I've talked with the folks at Dresser and at banaire.com. Their tubes have the 1 1/2" long stem that I started with which won't help. If I can find one with a 1" stem that would work great. So far no luck on finding that.
Two options that seem open now: use the adapter rings offered by www.russaircraft.com to convert the 10 SC wheels to the much more common 10x4 tube and tire, or find a shorter valve stem that can be vulcanized/glued onto a replacement tube for the 10 SC tire and rim.
Other suggestions received are: bend the brass tube that forms the valve stem - but keeping the stem kink free and still able to accept a valve core looks challenging, and build up the inside of the rim around the stem hole so only one inch of the valve stem with protrude thru the rim. This latter idea seems doable.'