Ranger #4 Cyl Plug

[Jack Threadgill]

'Thanks to all the previous suggestions and some personal help from Joe
Denest over the telephone, I successfully removed the ignition lead with the
120 deg elbow and the left hand spark plug on the #4 cyl. On my engine with
shielded plugs like the REM-40E and the metal elbow the carb is in the way
to remove the lead from the plug.



My main problem was getting the ignition lead disconnected from the plug.
My engine has shielded leads with the 120 deg elbow with a hard bakelite
type cigarette with a spring on the plug end of the cigarette. The leads
are pushed into the cigarettes and the center conductor goes thru a small
hole in the plug end of the cigarette and is flared or bent inside the
spring to keep the cigarette from coming off the lead. No physical
connection like soldering or crimping is used. As explained by Joe the
ignition lead can be pulled out of the cigarette letting the lead to be bent
slightly so the elbow and lead can be removed from the plug. The hard
cigarette is left in the plug while the lead is removed and then the
cigarette can be removed from the plug.



I chose to use a fine tooth hack saw to cut cigarette into two pieces. I
made the cut 5/16" away from the end opposite the spring. I then slipped
the small piece of the cigarette on to the ignition lead and then push the
lead into the remaining cigarette. The center conductor of the lead went
into the small hole in the center of the spring where it was flared or bent
over the inside of the spring. This gave enough flexibility with the
cigarette in two pieces to let me install and reconnect the lead to the
installed plug without moving the carb. Worked out very well.



Once I was able to remove the lead from the plug, I had no problem removing
the plug from the cyl. I used a standard Craftsman 7/8" box wrench with a
slight offset bend to loosen the plug. This wrench handle was above the
plug and toward the front of the engine. Once the plug was broken loose, I
used a 7/8" crow's foot with a 3/8" drive connected to a ratchet wrench with
a flexible handle. The crow's foot was placed on the top side of the plug.
The plug was easily removed without removing any baffle or other parts. I
used the same wrenches to install the new plug. I have not figured out how
to get a torque wrench to it.



All plugs were replaced with new ones and the engine is running very well.



Thanks again to all those that sent suggestions and to Joe Denest for his
help.



I am sure every one has figured all this out for them selves, but if not I
offer these above suggestions.



Jack

PT-19

N1941N



Jack Threadgill

1602 Brook Hollow Dr

Bryan, TX 77802

979-779-7155

threadgl@suddenlink.net





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