'I am in the process of making new fuel lines for my 24, from the fuel shut-off up to the wing root. I sure can see that it would be a real bear, to fabricate them, if all or most of the sheet metal around the nose is still in place. I am quite fortunate in one respect. I don't have any of that in place, but that leaves me a long way from flying again.
I am trying to routing the lines up the front side of the door post, then over the top of the mount that is used for the assist strap. There is barely enough room to do it. I should know by the end of this weekend it is possible. I will also be able to measure the distances between each bend, and the degrees of each bend and the radius of the bend. I am presently thinking, if the tubing has the proper bends in place, the only things that will need to be done would be to uncover the door post and to remove the fuel shut-off valve. It looks like the trickiest part would be to get the fuel lines to make a straight in shot to the shut-off valve.
Again. I should know better, by the end of the weekend.
Bob Etter
PO Box 974
Tonopah, NV 89049
775-482-6820
rletter@citlink.net
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]'
Re: F-24 Fuel line routing.
Prop hubs
'I need a prop hub for a Ranger and a friend that also needs one. I'm
trying to learn what the differences are in hubs for the Ranger & Warner
radial. I researched the Sensenich web site and they list their hub
notes for the manufactures. They list 4 hubs that were interchanged
between the inline & radial because they both have SAE20 splined shafts,
I assumed.
#1, Air Force, #41G2325-9, 6"hub thickness, 3.880 hub bore, 7" bolt
circle, 8 bolts, 0.438" bolts (7/16)
#2, Air Force, #41G2325-6, 5.25"hub thickness, 3.880" hub bore, 7"
bolt circle, 8 bolts, 0.438" bolts (7/16)
#3, Warner, #7900/8530/8599, 4.125"hub thickness, 3.255" hub bore,
5.250" bolt circle, 8 bolts, 0.375" bolts (3/8)
#4, Warner, #8808/43D24385, 4.125"hub thickness, 3.255" hub bore,
6.188" bolt circle, 6 bolts, 0.375" bolts (3/8)
Could any of these hubs be successfully used on a Ranger? Are there some
with more advantages than others? It looks like each one requires its
own specific prop, so does the prop on-hand, drive the hub type?
Jan Servaites'
trying to learn what the differences are in hubs for the Ranger & Warner
radial. I researched the Sensenich web site and they list their hub
notes for the manufactures. They list 4 hubs that were interchanged
between the inline & radial because they both have SAE20 splined shafts,
I assumed.
#1, Air Force, #41G2325-9, 6"hub thickness, 3.880 hub bore, 7" bolt
circle, 8 bolts, 0.438" bolts (7/16)
#2, Air Force, #41G2325-6, 5.25"hub thickness, 3.880" hub bore, 7"
bolt circle, 8 bolts, 0.438" bolts (7/16)
#3, Warner, #7900/8530/8599, 4.125"hub thickness, 3.255" hub bore,
5.250" bolt circle, 8 bolts, 0.375" bolts (3/8)
#4, Warner, #8808/43D24385, 4.125"hub thickness, 3.255" hub bore,
6.188" bolt circle, 6 bolts, 0.375" bolts (3/8)
Could any of these hubs be successfully used on a Ranger? Are there some
with more advantages than others? It looks like each one requires its
own specific prop, so does the prop on-hand, drive the hub type?
Jan Servaites'
-
Tom Mueller
- Posts: 83
- Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 3:18 pm
Re: F-24 Fuel line routing.
'Robert,
The lines go upwards from the fuel shutoff, upwards through the
wooden window sill, continue upwards and start a slight inboard and
aft ward turn well below the mount for the handhold. There's a little
metal clip welded to the tubular frame (I think to mount an interior
piece) The tubes are stacked one on top of each other and actually
rest on this clip as they travel a short distance rearward. When I
replaced mine, that's the way she ran. It looked factory.
Tom
Hanford,Ca'
The lines go upwards from the fuel shutoff, upwards through the
wooden window sill, continue upwards and start a slight inboard and
aft ward turn well below the mount for the handhold. There's a little
metal clip welded to the tubular frame (I think to mount an interior
piece) The tubes are stacked one on top of each other and actually
rest on this clip as they travel a short distance rearward. When I
replaced mine, that's the way she ran. It looked factory.
Tom
Hanford,Ca'
Re: Prop hubs
'Jan.
all of those hubs will fit a Ranger the prop that you have will
determine which hub you use..
John Berendt
Fairchild Club
all of those hubs will fit a Ranger the prop that you have will
determine which hub you use..
John Berendt
Fairchild Club
'----- Original Message -----
From: Jan
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2006 12:51 PM
Subject: [fairchildclub] Prop hubs
I need a prop hub for a Ranger and a friend that also needs one. I'm
trying to learn what the differences are in hubs for the Ranger & Warner
radial. I researched the Sensenich web site and they list their hub
notes for the manufactures. They list 4 hubs that were interchanged
between the inline & radial because they both have SAE20 splined shafts,
I assumed.
#1, Air Force, #41G2325-9, 6"hub thickness, 3.880 hub bore, 7" bolt
circle, 8 bolts, 0.438" bolts (7/16)
#2, Air Force, #41G2325-6, 5.25"hub thickness, 3.880" hub bore, 7"
bolt circle, 8 bolts, 0.438" bolts (7/16)
#3, Warner, #7900/8530/8599, 4.125"hub thickness, 3.255" hub bore,
5.250" bolt circle, 8 bolts, 0.375" bolts (3/8)
#4, Warner, #8808/43D24385, 4.125"hub thickness, 3.255" hub bore,
6.188" bolt circle, 6 bolts, 0.375" bolts (3/8)
Could any of these hubs be successfully used on a Ranger? Are there some
with more advantages than others? It looks like each one requires its
own specific prop, so does the prop on-hand, drive the hub type?
Jan Servaites
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re: Prop hubs
'Thanks John, that reinforces my hunch of the matter. What would be a
fair price for a usable hub? I'll be needing one in a few months.
Jan
fchld wrote:
fair price for a usable hub? I'll be needing one in a few months.
Jan
fchld wrote:
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]'> Jan.
>
> all of those hubs will fit a Ranger the prop that you have will
> determine which hub you use..
>
> John Berendt
> Fairchild Club
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jan
> To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
>
> Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2006 12:51 PM
> Subject: [fairchildclub] Prop hubs
>
> I need a prop hub for a Ranger and a friend that also needs one. I'm
> trying to learn what the differences are in hubs for the Ranger & Warner
> radial. I researched the Sensenich web site and they list their hub
> notes for the manufactures. They list 4 hubs that were interchanged
> between the inline & radial because they both have SAE20 splined shafts,
> I assumed.
> #1, Air Force, #41G2325-9, 6"hub thickness, 3.880 hub bore, 7" bolt
> circle, 8 bolts, 0.438" bolts (7/16)
> #2, Air Force, #41G2325-6, 5.25"hub thickness, 3.880" hub bore, 7"
> bolt circle, 8 bolts, 0.438" bolts (7/16)
> #3, Warner, #7900/8530/8599, 4.125"hub thickness, 3.255" hub bore,
> 5.250" bolt circle, 8 bolts, 0.375" bolts (3/8)
> #4, Warner, #8808/43D24385, 4.125"hub thickness, 3.255" hub bore,
> 6.188" bolt circle, 6 bolts, 0.375" bolts (3/8)
> Could any of these hubs be successfully used on a Ranger? Are there some
> with more advantages than others? It looks like each one requires its
> own specific prop, so does the prop on-hand, drive the hub type?
> Jan Servaites
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
-
ROBERT COON
- Posts: 26
- Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 11:39 am
Re: F-24 Fuel line routing.
'Bob,
You're in for a real project. A good tube bender, not a spring bender, will help tremendously. Also, it helps to fill the tubing with sand, capped at both ends. It's less resistant to kinks that way. You may have to remove the wind screen and frame, but it will work, or so I'm told. I've gone through several trial pieces, but think I have it. I'll send you pics as soon as I get one in place. Good luck. Hope your weekend was successful. Bob Coon Fairchild UC61K, HB-690.
Robert Etter wrote:
I am in the process of making new fuel lines for my 24, from the fuel shut-off up to the wing root. I sure can see that it would be a real bear, to fabricate them, if all or most of the sheet metal around the nose is still in place. I am quite fortunate in one respect. I don't have any of that in place, but that leaves me a long way from flying again.
I am trying to routing the lines up the front side of the door post, then over the top of the mount that is used for the assist strap. There is barely enough room to do it. I should know by the end of this weekend it is possible. I will also be able to measure the distances between each bend, and the degrees of each bend and the radius of the bend. I am presently thinking, if the tubing has the proper bends in place, the only things that will need to be done would be to uncover the door post and to remove the fuel shut-off valve. It looks like the trickiest part would be to get the fuel lines to make a straight in shot to the shut-off valve.
Again. I should know better, by the end of the weekend.
Bob Etter
PO Box 974
Tonopah, NV 89049
775-482-6820
rletter@citlink.net
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]'
You're in for a real project. A good tube bender, not a spring bender, will help tremendously. Also, it helps to fill the tubing with sand, capped at both ends. It's less resistant to kinks that way. You may have to remove the wind screen and frame, but it will work, or so I'm told. I've gone through several trial pieces, but think I have it. I'll send you pics as soon as I get one in place. Good luck. Hope your weekend was successful. Bob Coon Fairchild UC61K, HB-690.
Robert Etter wrote:
I am in the process of making new fuel lines for my 24, from the fuel shut-off up to the wing root. I sure can see that it would be a real bear, to fabricate them, if all or most of the sheet metal around the nose is still in place. I am quite fortunate in one respect. I don't have any of that in place, but that leaves me a long way from flying again.
I am trying to routing the lines up the front side of the door post, then over the top of the mount that is used for the assist strap. There is barely enough room to do it. I should know by the end of this weekend it is possible. I will also be able to measure the distances between each bend, and the degrees of each bend and the radius of the bend. I am presently thinking, if the tubing has the proper bends in place, the only things that will need to be done would be to uncover the door post and to remove the fuel shut-off valve. It looks like the trickiest part would be to get the fuel lines to make a straight in shot to the shut-off valve.
Again. I should know better, by the end of the weekend.
Bob Etter
PO Box 974
Tonopah, NV 89049
775-482-6820
rletter@citlink.net
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]'
Re: Prop hubs
'Jan
They go anywhere from $300 to $500 depending on the hub I have several of the large military hubs.
John Berendt
They go anywhere from $300 to $500 depending on the hub I have several of the large military hubs.
John Berendt
'----- Original Message -----
From: Jan
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2006 8:09 PM
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] Prop hubs
Thanks John, that reinforces my hunch of the matter. What would be a
fair price for a usable hub? I'll be needing one in a few months.
Jan
fchld wrote:
> Jan.
>
> all of those hubs will fit a Ranger the prop that you have will
> determine which hub you use..
>
> John Berendt
> Fairchild Club
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jan
> To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
>
> Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2006 12:51 PM
> Subject: [fairchildclub] Prop hubs
>
> I need a prop hub for a Ranger and a friend that also needs one. I'm
> trying to learn what the differences are in hubs for the Ranger & Warner
> radial. I researched the Sensenich web site and they list their hub
> notes for the manufactures. They list 4 hubs that were interchanged
> between the inline & radial because they both have SAE20 splined shafts,
> I assumed.
> #1, Air Force, #41G2325-9, 6"hub thickness, 3.880 hub bore, 7" bolt
> circle, 8 bolts, 0.438" bolts (7/16)
> #2, Air Force, #41G2325-6, 5.25"hub thickness, 3.880" hub bore, 7"
> bolt circle, 8 bolts, 0.438" bolts (7/16)
> #3, Warner, #7900/8530/8599, 4.125"hub thickness, 3.255" hub bore,
> 5.250" bolt circle, 8 bolts, 0.375" bolts (3/8)
> #4, Warner, #8808/43D24385, 4.125"hub thickness, 3.255" hub bore,
> 6.188" bolt circle, 6 bolts, 0.375" bolts (3/8)
> Could any of these hubs be successfully used on a Ranger? Are there some
> with more advantages than others? It looks like each one requires its
> own specific prop, so does the prop on-hand, drive the hub type?
> Jan Servaites
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
-
robert Etter
- Posts: 234
- Joined: Tue Feb 27, 2001 7:37 pm
Re: F-24 Fuel line routing.
'Thanks for the E-mail.
I have, I think, gotten the job done. Installing new fuel lines.
I did go up the front of the door post, over the top of the assist strap bracket. I did route the outboard line more vertical then the inboard one. Then I could put a small bend, 20 deg. to bring the line toward the assist bracket at a small angle. This way I could get a little better separation between the two lines as they turn over the top of the bracket, then turn toward the rear. I didn't go very far, since the fuel lines exit the wing real close to that area. It doesn't look to bad. That "S" bend to get through the wood, is a real bear. Reshaping the hole worked for me.
And, Yes, I did have a quality tube bender. It was a fairly old Imperial Eastman type, and it worked great. It even has a degree scale, 15 deg. increments weren't difficult to work with.
I was worried about the seal between the line and the "Y". I think that I have that one covered. I found some compression rings that I thought would work, but I needed to cut the bevel off one side. Putting them into a lathe, without crushing or distorting them was a small worry. I put a bolt through the compression ring, then was able to tighten the head stock enough to hold it into place and get a reasonably clean cut-off.
This weekend I plan to pressure test the line/"Y" connection. Close off both lines, one to the other above the door, and feed a reasonable bit of air pressure through the shut-off.
Bob Etter
PO Box 974
Tonopah, NV 89049
775-482-6820
rletter@citlink.net
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]'
I have, I think, gotten the job done. Installing new fuel lines.
I did go up the front of the door post, over the top of the assist strap bracket. I did route the outboard line more vertical then the inboard one. Then I could put a small bend, 20 deg. to bring the line toward the assist bracket at a small angle. This way I could get a little better separation between the two lines as they turn over the top of the bracket, then turn toward the rear. I didn't go very far, since the fuel lines exit the wing real close to that area. It doesn't look to bad. That "S" bend to get through the wood, is a real bear. Reshaping the hole worked for me.
And, Yes, I did have a quality tube bender. It was a fairly old Imperial Eastman type, and it worked great. It even has a degree scale, 15 deg. increments weren't difficult to work with.
I was worried about the seal between the line and the "Y". I think that I have that one covered. I found some compression rings that I thought would work, but I needed to cut the bevel off one side. Putting them into a lathe, without crushing or distorting them was a small worry. I put a bolt through the compression ring, then was able to tighten the head stock enough to hold it into place and get a reasonably clean cut-off.
This weekend I plan to pressure test the line/"Y" connection. Close off both lines, one to the other above the door, and feed a reasonable bit of air pressure through the shut-off.
Bob Etter
PO Box 974
Tonopah, NV 89049
775-482-6820
rletter@citlink.net
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]'