'We have N81271 in our shop for an annual and a few other items. One
is a tail wheel shimmy. It appears to be possibly excessive axial
play between the P/N 4388-3 trunnion and the P/N43168 Collar. Any
ideas as to a fix? It pppears that most of the wear is in the bronze
trunnion which I'm sure are extremely scarce. Any help would be
greatly apreciated!!
Len Miller Jet West - Reno, Nv.'
Re: F24 Tail Wheel Shimmy
Re: F24 Tail Wheel Shimmy
'Check the tail wheel linkages. They do crack and break. It is not fun to fix in the field. Had that done at Oshkosh. Welding close to doped fabric can be a real problem.
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
'----- Original Message -----
From: lenwmiller
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 12:29 PM
Subject: [fairchildclub] F24 Tail Wheel Shimmy
We have N81271 in our shop for an annual and a few other items. One
is a tail wheel shimmy. It appears to be possibly excessive axial
play between the P/N 4388-3 trunnion and the P/N43168 Collar. Any
ideas as to a fix? It pppears that most of the wear is in the bronze
trunnion which I'm sure are extremely scarce. Any help would be
greatly apreciated!!
Len Miller Jet West - Reno, Nv.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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- Posts: 7
- Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2004 7:41 pm
Re: F24 Tail Wheel Shimmy
'I had the machine shop make a new bushing for mine
Nick Nelson
cgalley wrote:
Check the tail wheel linkages. They do crack and break. It is not fun to fix in the field. Had that done at Oshkosh. Welding close to doped fabric can be a real problem.
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
Nick Nelson
cgalley wrote:
Check the tail wheel linkages. They do crack and break. It is not fun to fix in the field. Had that done at Oshkosh. Welding close to doped fabric can be a real problem.
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
'----- Original Message -----
From: lenwmiller
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 12:29 PM
Subject: [fairchildclub] F24 Tail Wheel Shimmy
We have N81271 in our shop for an annual and a few other items. One
is a tail wheel shimmy. It appears to be possibly excessive axial
play between the P/N 4388-3 trunnion and the P/N43168 Collar. Any
ideas as to a fix? It pppears that most of the wear is in the bronze
trunnion which I'm sure are extremely scarce. Any help would be
greatly apreciated!!
Len Miller Jet West - Reno, Nv.
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/fairchildclub/
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
fairchildclub-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links
To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/fairchildclub/
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
fairchildclub-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
-
- Posts: 141
- Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2001 10:01 am
Re: F24 Tail Wheel Shimmy
'Len,
The major shimmy culpret comes from the spline wear and loosness. You will
most likely find the two splines very loose due to the brass rivits.
You need to return the tolerances to new condition to avoid the pit falls.
Jamie
Jamie S. Treat A&P/IA
Aircraft Restoration & Repair
24201 David C. Johnson Loop
Kelly Airpark
Elbert, CO 80106
HM/Shop 303-648-0130
The major shimmy culpret comes from the spline wear and loosness. You will
most likely find the two splines very loose due to the brass rivits.
You need to return the tolerances to new condition to avoid the pit falls.
Jamie
Jamie S. Treat A&P/IA
Aircraft Restoration & Repair
24201 David C. Johnson Loop
Kelly Airpark
Elbert, CO 80106
HM/Shop 303-648-0130
'----- Original Message -----
From: "lenwmiller"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 11:29 AM
Subject: [fairchildclub] F24 Tail Wheel Shimmy
>
>
> We have N81271 in our shop for an annual and a few other items. One
> is a tail wheel shimmy. It appears to be possibly excessive axial
> play between the P/N 4388-3 trunnion and the P/N43168 Collar. Any
> ideas as to a fix? It pppears that most of the wear is in the bronze
> trunnion which I'm sure are extremely scarce. Any help would be
> greatly apreciated!!
> Len Miller Jet West - Reno, Nv.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
-
- Posts: 73
- Joined: Fri Dec 14, 2001 9:26 pm
Re: F24 Tail Wheel Shimmy
'As the angry villagers chanted in "Young Frankenstien"......
"KILL THE MUNSTER!!!!!"
Most of these trunnions have rec'd hamfisted bandaid "fixes" over
the
years. The first temptation is to dress the mating faces to "shrink"
the I.D. While this does magically reduce the clearance, the diameter
is no longer that...a diameter. It's now a football shape, and the
fore
and aft slop is still there, the direction to which the strut
receives
most stress. It is a bit like grasping a tube between thumb and
forefinger rather than wrapping the finger fully about the tube. It
will work for a while, but the Munster is still alive. Now the faces
to
which the draglink mate to are too narrow and unless shimmed
accordingly, will bind down the ears on draglink when the Alemite
screws are tightened. We all have those special shoulder screws in
don't we? We've seen several without. Do not dress these faces unless
you or your subordinate have a full grasp of the impact this has, or
posess solid machine skills. If the faces were dressed non parallel
to
the bore axis, the thru screws will bind (Yes, they are screws, there
are virtually NO bolts on an aeroplane), if there were slop in the
vertical axis, it will now bind, and now the drag link screw holes
will
no longer be on a common axis throwing undue stresses on the link
ears
as the link works about it's hinge motion. You will find yourself
creating more problems and not be aware of it. A thorough study of
the drawing ( thanks to Jaime) is an absolute, look before you leap.
All this really doesn't tell you how to fix the trunnion does it? It
really states what not to do.
--- In fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com, "lenwmiller"
wrote:
"KILL THE MUNSTER!!!!!"
Most of these trunnions have rec'd hamfisted bandaid "fixes" over
the
years. The first temptation is to dress the mating faces to "shrink"
the I.D. While this does magically reduce the clearance, the diameter
is no longer that...a diameter. It's now a football shape, and the
fore
and aft slop is still there, the direction to which the strut
receives
most stress. It is a bit like grasping a tube between thumb and
forefinger rather than wrapping the finger fully about the tube. It
will work for a while, but the Munster is still alive. Now the faces
to
which the draglink mate to are too narrow and unless shimmed
accordingly, will bind down the ears on draglink when the Alemite
screws are tightened. We all have those special shoulder screws in
don't we? We've seen several without. Do not dress these faces unless
you or your subordinate have a full grasp of the impact this has, or
posess solid machine skills. If the faces were dressed non parallel
to
the bore axis, the thru screws will bind (Yes, they are screws, there
are virtually NO bolts on an aeroplane), if there were slop in the
vertical axis, it will now bind, and now the drag link screw holes
will
no longer be on a common axis throwing undue stresses on the link
ears
as the link works about it's hinge motion. You will find yourself
creating more problems and not be aware of it. A thorough study of
the drawing ( thanks to Jaime) is an absolute, look before you leap.
All this really doesn't tell you how to fix the trunnion does it? It
really states what not to do.
--- In fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com, "lenwmiller"
wrote:
One>
> We have N81271 in our shop for an annual and a few other items.
bronze> is a tail wheel shimmy. It appears to be possibly excessive axial
> play between the P/N 4388-3 trunnion and the P/N43168 Collar. Any
> ideas as to a fix? It pppears that most of the wear is in the
'> trunnion which I'm sure are extremely scarce. Any help would be
> greatly apreciated!!
> Len Miller Jet West - Reno, Nv.
-
- Posts: 140
- Joined: Mon Sep 16, 2002 8:10 am
Re: F24 Tail Wheel Shimmy
'Len,
There is a fix for the shimmy, when I find the information I will send it t
o you. you can have the strut rebuilt cost about $1,200.00 to do the
rebuild.
John Berendt
There is a fix for the shimmy, when I find the information I will send it t
o you. you can have the strut rebuilt cost about $1,200.00 to do the
rebuild.
John Berendt
'----- Original Message -----
From: "lenwmiller"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2005 12:29 PM
Subject: [fairchildclub] F24 Tail Wheel Shimmy
>
>
> We have N81271 in our shop for an annual and a few other items. One
> is a tail wheel shimmy. It appears to be possibly excessive axial
> play between the P/N 4388-3 trunnion and the P/N43168 Collar. Any
> ideas as to a fix? It pppears that most of the wear is in the bronze
> trunnion which I'm sure are extremely scarce. Any help would be
> greatly apreciated!!
> Len Miller Jet West - Reno, Nv.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>