'Dear friends,
As soon as the weather cools a little, I'll be picking up a stored
Fairchild R46 based in a small desert community near Tucson. The
plane has not flown in 3 years, but is rountinely pulled through for
oiling , and started for static checks. This a low time
airframe/engine aircraft, and I'm very pleased with the purchase.
The seller has been forthright and honest with me, but....I have a
few questions for the group.........
The plane has about 30 gals of 3 year old fuel onboard. Would you,
guy's an gal's, drain that off before starting out towards your new
home in Calif.? Like I have to do. I don't know, Gila Bend just
doesn't look all that inviting. Could be wrong! Also the seller
stated he tried auto fuel once, but experienced engine roughness
when switching between the two fuels. What's your thoughts on that,
seems like I've read a few times, a residue of sorts, has been found
in the carb bowl of aircraft run on auto fuel. I might have that
wrong, but it concerns me. Makes me think I should look at the carb
a little closer before leaving.
Thanks,
Tom'
Re: Stored Fairchild
-
Jamie S. Treat
- Posts: 141
- Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2001 10:01 am
Re: Stored Fairchild
'Tom,
I would drain the fuel and fill with fresh 100 Oct AVGas. Use Marvel
Mys oil as directed on the can. If the aircraft had Auto fuel in
storage, I would pull the carb and water trap (Gascolator) off and
take a good look at the inside for contamination and tar build up.
Look closely at the float needle for deterioration. Flush the system
good. Do your high power static run for a minute after warm up and
stay close over head in case of failure. Run it hard for at least 45
minutes.
Also, for note. The worst thing for aircraft engines is a pull
through on the prop and static runs. You are doing more damage to the
engine than letting it sit. Pulling the prop thru scrapes the oil
off the cylinder walls. No oil will recoat the walls unless you
establish oil pressure. If a owner buys the aircraft for the purpose
of looking at and flying once in a while, the next best thing is to
install a pre-oiler and pressurize the system a few times a week. All
piston aircraft engines need to be run at least 45 minutes to get to
operating temp to eliminate the moisture in the oil and engine. Those
short hops are bad. All they do is heat the oil and engine just
enough to create condensation on the metal parts when the engine
cools. The worst corrosion happens to wet sump engines, lower cam
types. Dry sump fair much better, but it is still a cruel way to
treat an engine. Use of preheater pads that result in a no run for
each usage will result in the same deterioration. The bottom line is,
fly often and fly for longer time in the air. If you can't, sell the
airplane to someone that will.
Jamie S. Treat A&P/IA
Aircraft Restoration & Repair
Kelly Airpark
Elbert, Colorado'
I would drain the fuel and fill with fresh 100 Oct AVGas. Use Marvel
Mys oil as directed on the can. If the aircraft had Auto fuel in
storage, I would pull the carb and water trap (Gascolator) off and
take a good look at the inside for contamination and tar build up.
Look closely at the float needle for deterioration. Flush the system
good. Do your high power static run for a minute after warm up and
stay close over head in case of failure. Run it hard for at least 45
minutes.
Also, for note. The worst thing for aircraft engines is a pull
through on the prop and static runs. You are doing more damage to the
engine than letting it sit. Pulling the prop thru scrapes the oil
off the cylinder walls. No oil will recoat the walls unless you
establish oil pressure. If a owner buys the aircraft for the purpose
of looking at and flying once in a while, the next best thing is to
install a pre-oiler and pressurize the system a few times a week. All
piston aircraft engines need to be run at least 45 minutes to get to
operating temp to eliminate the moisture in the oil and engine. Those
short hops are bad. All they do is heat the oil and engine just
enough to create condensation on the metal parts when the engine
cools. The worst corrosion happens to wet sump engines, lower cam
types. Dry sump fair much better, but it is still a cruel way to
treat an engine. Use of preheater pads that result in a no run for
each usage will result in the same deterioration. The bottom line is,
fly often and fly for longer time in the air. If you can't, sell the
airplane to someone that will.
Jamie S. Treat A&P/IA
Aircraft Restoration & Repair
Kelly Airpark
Elbert, Colorado'
-
Tom Mueller
- Posts: 83
- Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 3:18 pm
Re: Stored Fairchild
'jamie,
Good info on why not to pull the prop through "occasionally."
I restore old vehicles also, and pulling the prop through with the
good intentions of oiling things, makes as much sense as taking the
distributor cap off an old 283 Chevy, then cranking it through
to, "oil things"
Tom'
Good info on why not to pull the prop through "occasionally."
I restore old vehicles also, and pulling the prop through with the
good intentions of oiling things, makes as much sense as taking the
distributor cap off an old 283 Chevy, then cranking it through
to, "oil things"
Tom'
-
Buell Powell
- Posts: 111
- Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2001 8:19 am
Re: Stored Fairchild
'Tom,
One thing you may want to consider in addition to what Jamie has
suggested is to lubricate the cylinders before you start the engine. You can
make a venturi from copper tubing with a pick-up to put in a can of
automatic transmission fluid and the other with an air fitting, Pull the
plugs and spray a mist around the cylinders then pull the prop through. Do
this several times then change the oil. If the rings have become stuck or
there is rust this should help. It would also be a good idea to check the
compression before and after you start it-after you get everything checked
out you may want fly close to the field for an hour or so then land to see
that there isn't anything in the gascolator or leaks.
Good luck,
Buell Powell
One thing you may want to consider in addition to what Jamie has
suggested is to lubricate the cylinders before you start the engine. You can
make a venturi from copper tubing with a pick-up to put in a can of
automatic transmission fluid and the other with an air fitting, Pull the
plugs and spray a mist around the cylinders then pull the prop through. Do
this several times then change the oil. If the rings have become stuck or
there is rust this should help. It would also be a good idea to check the
compression before and after you start it-after you get everything checked
out you may want fly close to the field for an hour or so then land to see
that there isn't anything in the gascolator or leaks.
Good luck,
Buell Powell
'----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Mueller"
To:
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2004 11:21 AM
Subject: [fairchildclub] Re: Stored Fairchild
> jamie,
> Good info on why not to pull the prop through "occasionally."
> I restore old vehicles also, and pulling the prop through with the
> good intentions of oiling things, makes as much sense as taking the
> distributor cap off an old 283 Chevy, then cranking it through
> to, "oil things"
> Tom
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
-
Buell Powell
- Posts: 111
- Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2001 8:19 am
Re: Stored Fairchild
'One more thing you should probably do before you start trhe engine is to
pre-oil it. There is a plug next to the oil screen you can remove to force
oil in-with the plugs removed pull it through several times while spraying
the cylinders. If you need a drawing of the venturi I can send you one or I
can let you borrow the one I made.
Buell
pre-oil it. There is a plug next to the oil screen you can remove to force
oil in-with the plugs removed pull it through several times while spraying
the cylinders. If you need a drawing of the venturi I can send you one or I
can let you borrow the one I made.
Buell
'----- Original Message -----
From: "Buell Powell"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2004 6:13 AM
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] Re: Stored Fairchild
> Tom,
> One thing you may want to consider in addition to what Jamie has
> suggested is to lubricate the cylinders before you start the engine. You
can
> make a venturi from copper tubing with a pick-up to put in a can of
> automatic transmission fluid and the other with an air fitting, Pull the
> plugs and spray a mist around the cylinders then pull the prop through. Do
> this several times then change the oil. If the rings have become stuck or
> there is rust this should help. It would also be a good idea to check the
> compression before and after you start it-after you get everything checked
> out you may want fly close to the field for an hour or so then land to see
> that there isn't anything in the gascolator or leaks.
> Good luck,
> Buell Powell
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tom Mueller"
> To:
> Sent: Monday, July 26, 2004 11:21 AM
> Subject: [fairchildclub] Re: Stored Fairchild
>
>
> > jamie,
> > Good info on why not to pull the prop through "occasionally."
> > I restore old vehicles also, and pulling the prop through with the
> > good intentions of oiling things, makes as much sense as taking the
> > distributor cap off an old 283 Chevy, then cranking it through
> > to, "oil things"
> > Tom
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
-
Tom Mueller
- Posts: 83
- Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 3:18 pm
Re: Stored Fairchild
'Buell,
I'm going to do the tranmission oil suggestion you talked about.
I've used a similar technique several times on vintage auto engines
with good results. However that was after the engine had been
started. A small amount of fluid was injected through the carb.
I can fashion the tool you described. I'll use it before engine
start. Certainly can't hurt, and may free up a few things.
Tom'
I'm going to do the tranmission oil suggestion you talked about.
I've used a similar technique several times on vintage auto engines
with good results. However that was after the engine had been
started. A small amount of fluid was injected through the carb.
I can fashion the tool you described. I'll use it before engine
start. Certainly can't hurt, and may free up a few things.
Tom'