Re: SV: [fairchildclub] Re: Brakes

[SHEFLY@aol.com]

'Hi: I am a new owner of a l935 Fairchild 24W C8C. I wonder if someone can
answer a couple of questions for me. The rockers need to be greased about
every 5 hours and I would like to put the cowling on. Anyone know a way I
might grease the rockers without removing the cowling.
Second questions. I have been having a pretty exciting time with the
mechanical brakes hanging up. They are the original warner mechanical brakes
and I would love to change them to something more reliable. Any suggestions.
Sure would appreciate any info I can get.
Thanks Sharon Biloff, Amarillo, Texas


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]'

[Tom Downey]

'--- In fairchildclub@y..., SHEFLY@a... wrote:

> Hi: I am a new owner of a l935 Fairchild 24W C8C. I wonder if

someone can

> answer a couple of questions for me. The rockers need to be

greased about

> every 5 hours and I would like to put the cowling on. Anyone know

a way I

> might grease the rockers without removing the cowling.
> Second questions. I have been having a pretty exciting time with

the

> mechanical brakes hanging up. They are the original warner

mechanical brakes

> and I would love to change them to something more reliable. Any

suggestions.

> Sure would appreciate any info I can get.
> Thanks Sharon Biloff, Amarillo, Texas

I have been researching this, and here is what I have found so far,
the brake system off a C-310 would be the correct size (10") double
puck and the wheels are of the correct size also, but the bearings
will require a remachine to fit the axle lenght of the Fairchild
gear.
Cost of NEW parts from Cleveland would be about $11-1300 each wheel,
plus the $778.00 each brake assembly, and tubing/hoses, master
cylinders and of course a preapproved 337 for the work.
I am now into manufacturing a new drum, we will see how that works
out before going thru the whole mess of converting.'

[dcasali]

'Hi Sharon,

I'm a fairly new owner of a 24 G with mechanical brakes.

First, let me pass on what the previous owner told me regarding the use
of the brakes (re:exciting time).

"DON'T TOUCH THE BRAKES ON ROLLOUT"

My experience thus far is that he was pretty much right. It is very
difficult to get both sides to engage simultaneously, so excitement can
be the order of the day on first application. You do adapt to it with
practice, but mostly I avoid touching them except while taxiing.

Actually, the brakes aren't all that bad when working properly. I got a
dramatic improvement in brake feel by taking the play out of the brake
cables. Prior to adjustment, the toe brake would move quite a ways prior
to brake engagement. After, they have maybe half an inch of freeplay.
My A&P adjusted at the cable attach point to the brakes, but there may
also be an easier adjustment near the pedals (this on a 24 G).

Of course, this doesn't really address the brakes hanging up.
Broken/weak return spring? Binding cable? The problem can probably be
fixed. Swapping brakes for Clevelands is quite spendy.

Good luck.

SHEFLY@aol.com wrote

> Second questions. I have been having a pretty exciting time with the
> mechanical brakes hanging up. They are the original warner mechanical
> brakes
> and I would love to change them to something more reliable. Any
> suggestions.
> Sure would appreciate any info I can get.
> Thanks Sharon Biloff, Amarillo, Texas

-- Dan Casali, Publisher
Lost River Press
Box 1286 Ketchum, ID 83340
208.726.5120'

[Vintage Wings, Inc.]

'You guys need to make sure they are clean and the proper Asbestos lining material. Then check your bands for a week spot. Some times they will flex only in one spot due to fatigue. Also make sure they are of the same thickness and the drums are the same thickness. (One may have been replaced and not the other one...) Next check the gap between the band and the drum. .015 I believe.

If they are very dirty they will grab.

As for greasing them. You can make a long zert line that comes forward through the baffles. You can also run a line aft so you can get to them with a SMALL grease gun. I use one of the very little ones and can usually get it under the cowling. You will have to have aft facing zerts.

Sharon, I am also available for consult in since you are close. I am in OKC.

regards,
Gene Lehman
405-282-6867
gene@vintagewings.com






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]'

[Gene Lehman]

'Do any of you know where to get master cylinders for a 24?

Gene Lehman


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]'

[Robert Lloyd]

'Our PT-26 is back in the air. It took forever to get the field
approval for our Jasco alternator installation, but we finally have it.
We also put on a stainless steel exhaust system from Aircraft
Exhaust Systems of Jumping Branch, West Virginia. Thanks
Jamie and everyone else who gave us advice while we were going
through all of this.
Now we have a new problem. After a short and uneventful
test flight I turned to go into the hangar and the left brake locked. It
would not budge. When we chocked the other wheel and moved
the tail, the left wheel just skidded. The wheel didn't seem to be
unusually hot. The next morning the wheel was free and the brake
operated normally. The brakes are the original expander-tube
brakes. We had some problems with the left brake dragging in the
past, but we flushed the system and sanded the pucks and that
seemed to take care of it. The wheel bearings have been
inspected and repacked within the last year.
Does anybody have any ideas?
Bob Lloyd'

[jstreat360@aol.com]

'Bob,

Make sure they are clean and dry. If paint was used in the brake plate assemble make sure is not breaking down and turning to gew. Also make sure the spring clips are installed correctly and they are in good condition. Should be of a consistant spring/arch. Make sure you have sufficient clearance between the pads and drum.

Maybe Mike or Joe Denest can ad to this.

Jamie'

[jstreat360@aol.com]

'Bob,

Send me a copy of that Jasco PT install for the CD and Club records.

Jamie.'

[Cy Galley]

'I would flush and refill with new fluid. Sounds like you have a piece of
dirt acting as a one way valve. Remove the connection to the bladder and
check for dirt there. Use a pump type oil can and pump up the bladder at the
connection and let drain a couple of times.

Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh

Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org

Always looking for articles for the Experimenter

----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 11:03 AM
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] Brakes


Bob,

Make sure they are clean and dry. If paint was used in the brake plate
assemble make sure is not breaking down and turning to gew. Also make sure
the spring clips are installed correctly and they are in good condition.
Should be of a consistant spring/arch. Make sure you have sufficient
clearance between the pads and drum.

Maybe Mike or Joe Denest can ad to this.

Jamie


To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
fairchildclub-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

'

[cliffmccluney@webtv.net]

'Bob, I had the same problem with my 26. It would get hot while taxiing
and had it smoke once. We kept filing and sanding the blocks and
putting the drum on and rotating to find hi spots. You are supposed to
keep at it till you get .020" clearance but we stopped at about .005 to
keep from getting the blocks too thin. I still think we may be getting
some EXPANDER TUBE SWELLING from the fluids we are using. Jamie was
going to try to find out if they were natural rubber or synthetic.

As to the cabin heat box, I finally found one. Will send you a photo if
you would like.

Cliff McCluney
Kerens, TX.'