Re: Tailwheel topics

[dcasali]

' Hi All,
I've been trying to keep my recently purchased 1937 G-24 in shape. The tailwheel is free pivoting with coil spring and oil strut. My operator's manual describes removing a plug on the side of the strut tube and filling the strut with oil from a top plug until oil flows the side plug hole. Well, I don't have a side plug. There is a hole in about the right location, but no plug, and the hole is not even threaded. I went ahead and filled the strut until oil ran out of the hole and left it at that, but should I have an uncovered hole there? Also, exactly what type of oil should one use for the struts? I used hydraulic jack oil this time around. Finally, the plane came with a Scott wheel and tire, which shimmies. John Berendt passed on the following advice:

Dan, The shimmy can be fixed.  First contact Russ Harmuth at RRR-us Aircraft.  He has a STC to put a
square shoulder tire on the Fairchild tail wheel.  His phone is (209) 795-1817.  He has a 800 number also.  If you find a copy of the General Aviation News  Russ advertises in there. A longer drag link will help also.  Bill Spriggs in California had some made; you have to machine
it out. Bills phone number is (805) 644-5503.
 

I actually have two of the original 8" streamline tailwheels; does anyone know if there is a tire in production that can be mounted on them?
Thanks, Dan Casali
  -- Dan Casali, Publisher
Lost River Press
Box 1286 Ketchum, ID 83340
208.726.5120

'

[Jamie S. Treat]

'Dan,

Start off with total disassembly, clean inspect and check for wear.
Correct the wear areas. The longer drag link will help, but if the
assembly is worn out, you are just asking for trouble down the road.
Make sure the tire is in good repair, round and proper inflation. As
for the bleed port, should be pluged, either yours was not tapped for
threads or it was stripped clean. As for Strut Oil, I am using DOT 4
brake fluid. You can also use DOT 5 after flush or the Motorcycle
strut oil. 5606 will also work, make sure you note what fluid you use
so that it does not get mixed. I try and stay away from 5606 around
the old Farichilds, no chance of installing it in the brake system.
Once my 24R46 is rebuild, I will be switching over to DOT 5 for all
systems. The Syn oil will not remove paint, but needs to have a good
tight system to avoid leaks.

Jamie Treat
Aircraft Restoration & Repair

--- In fairchildclub@y..., Daniel P Casali wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I've been trying to keep my recently purchased 1937 G-24 in shape.
The
> tailwheel is free pivoting with coil spring and oil strut.
>
> My operator's manual describes removing a plug on the side of the
strut
> tube and filling the strut with oil from a top plug until oil flows
the
> side plug hole.
>
> Well, I don't have a side plug. There is a hole in about the right
> location, but no plug, and the hole is not even threaded. I went
ahead
> and filled the strut until oil ran out of the hole and left it at
that,
> but should I have an uncovered hole there?
>
> Also, exactly what type of oil should one use for the struts? I used
> hydraulic jack oil this time around.
>
> Finally, the plane came with a Scott wheel and tire, which shimmies.
> John Berendt passed on the following advice:
>
> Dan,
>
> The shimmy can be fixed. First contact Russ Harmuth at RRR-us
> Aircraft. He has a STC to put a
> square shoulder tire on the Fairchild tail wheel. His phone
> is (209) 795-1817. He has a 800 number also. If you find a
> copy of the General Aviation News Russ advertises in there.
>
> A longer drag link will help also. Bill Spriggs in California
> had some made; you have to machine
> it out. Bills phone number is (805) 644-5503.
>
>
> I actually have two of the original 8" streamline tailwheels; does
> anyone know if there is a tire in production that can be mounted on
> them?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dan Casali
>
>
> -- Dan Casali, Publisher
> Lost River Press
> Box 1286 Ketchum, ID 83340
> 208.726.5120

'

[Vintage Wings, Inc.]

' I agree with Jamie on making sure it is rebuilt and tight.  I never had a  shimmy problem with my '37.  It was tight, with a good tire.  The later version is much more prone to shimmy.    One problem with the earlier ones is they tend to break the fuselage brackets.  I would check all the mounting tabs for breaks.  This will make them shimmy and then bigger problems.  Most of them ('36 and '37s) we have found are broken or have been broken.  The later installations do not have this problem but do shimmy.   I also fill all my struts with automatic transmission fluid. 100% synthetic and will not harm the paint either.    Gene Lehman'

[jstreat360@aol.com]

'Never thought about useing Tran fluid, good idea. Also about the attach points, mine are worn pretty bad. On the Post War models the link tab is just that a tab. No welded bushing. The bolt rides on a contact area of .125 or less metal. I will, during rebuild weld bushing stock in place on the outside and may very well install bronze bushing stock so that I can replace to new tolerance. I am doing that now on the Rudder and Horz attach fittings on Aeronca's and Pitts Specials. Nice to install new pins and bushing and have a new tolerance.

Jamie Treat
ARR'

[dcasali]

' When I examined my tailwheel closely I discovered that the coil spring had fractured where it was welded to the base plate. You would never see this fracture unless you were looking at it as you turn the tailwheel. The round plate the spring was (previously) welded to turned into a cam that would force the tailwheel to turn to about a 45 degree angle from straight. This made for some very interesting moments when the tail touched down.
I haven't inspected the link mounting tabs yet. Will do so asap. Thanks for the advice. Dan -- Dan Casali, Publisher
Lost River Press
Box 1286 Ketchum, ID 83340
208.726.5120'