>From: "ranger440c5"
>Reply-To:
fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
>To:
fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [fairchildclub] Re: Prop Hub
>Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 15:30:29 -0000
>
>That is correct. They still use the AN5008-20 bronze rear cone. But
>none of the AN50XX series parts fit...front cone, nut, retaining
>ring, bolts, nuts, etc. Thanks for posting the data, I had not seen
>that before and it is helpfull with a #30 I am trying to ID. Would
>you have a chart or specs on the AN5008-XX rear cones? Am curious
>about these as have seen two types, one with a fully tapered OD and
>one with a tapered seat about 1/2" long and then a straight OD for
>the remaining length. Wouldn't have data on this would you?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>--- In
fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com, "Curt Kinchen"
>wrote:
> >
> > It does sound correct to me. My recollection is also that the
>small hubs do
> > not use
> > a front cone. The AN5017 I posted is simply for a visual reference
>(not
> > dimensional). The cones used on it are, however, correct for the
>hubs used
> > on the Ranger.
> >
> > Curt Kinchen
> >
> >
> > >From: "ranger440c5"
> > >Reply-To:
fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
> > >To:
fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
> > >Subject: [fairchildclub] Re: Prop Hub
> > >Date: Tue, 15 Aug 2006 14:48:40 -0000
> > >
> > >I am chiming in a bit late here but perhaps here is something of
> > >use..... There may be confusion among #20 wood prop hubs. Correct
>me
> > >if I am wrong but the file loaded for the AN5017 hub design is
> > >for "long" #20 spline hubs, commonly called "Air Corps". These are
> > >for Continental W670, Jacobs, and Wrights. The Warner 145,165 and
> > >Ranger "L" series used a "short" #20 spline. The long is capable
>of
> > >carrying a 6.5" thick prop hub and the short 4.5" hub. You will
>see
> > >this on the Sensenich 86AB 54 prop, it has big lumps to get the
> > >airfoil at the hub area and then chopped down to get to the 4.5"
> > >flange to flange dimension for the Ranger short hub. All the short
> > >hubs I have seen do not use a front cone, there is instead a
>single
> > >ring to slip on to the crank and then the nut, thus the nut will
> > >not "pull" the hub when removing. To verify all this the simple
> > >thing one must look at is the bolt diameter....the long #20 has
> > >7/16bolts and the short has 3/8 bolts.
> > > The wild card in all this is there was a pre-war hub that looks
> > >like the manual with the solid flange on the front and the crush
> > >plate on the rear. I have seen one of these on a Ranger 24 in KY
> > >(owner: Webster?).This one I do not know if used a front cone or
>not.
> > > You would never even get an AN 5017 hub on a Ranger as they are
>way
> > >too long, a solid 1.5" too long. I don't believe Ranger ever used
>a
> > >#10...they originally had tapered then went to the short 20.
> > > Does all this sound correct?
> > >
> > >
> > >--- In
fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com, "Tom Mueller"
> > >wrote:
> > > >
> > > > --- In
fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com, "Curt Kinchen"
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I've added in the Files area the AN5017 prop hub spec. It's
> > > > > representative of the Warner hubs(large) used on the Ranger.
> > > > >
> > > > > Curt Kinchen
> > > >
> > > > Thanks Curt,
> > > > I'm laboring over the schematics now. I'm not ready to buy a
>whole
> > >new
> > > > hub setup, but it's sure starting to look like I have a SAE
>#10
> > > > hanging on the nose of this Fairchild. It has a metal tag
> > >indicating
> > > > it's a Warner
> > > > Part # 8599 (an alternate hub for the 9700) and it's supposed
>to
> > >have
> > > > a special front cone, Part # 8587.
> > > > I just don't know what that part is quite yet.
> > > > Tom
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
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