'Jim,
I used a fuselage envelope that is now sold by Aircraft Spruce. I
had them make it for my 24K (the first of the four place 24s). I
think they have one for 1937 and earlier, and one for 1938 and
later. The only issue, is to shrink the fabric such that the seams
line up with the longerons. I don't think that sheets would be much
harder, but may require a bit more material. I would get medium-to-
heavy fabric for the fuselage, and medium fabric for the wings and
rudder and elevator, and light fabric to cover the horizontal and
vertical (plywood covered) tail surfaces.
I used an envelope for the wings 'cause I wanted to 'pad' the
leading edge with Poly Fiber Batting. You cannot make a glue seam
over the batting. If you intend to glue the fabric to the leading
edge, then you could use sheet material instead.
I am covering a Kitfox wing this week, and violated one of my
personal rules that I tell everyone to follow. Just before you are
ready to apply the covering, spend an additional two hours with the
assistance of a two armed helper, and stretch a piece of shrink-wrap
or some other shiny material, over every part of the structure you
are about to cover. You should look for things that 'stick up'.
Glue blobs, mis-shaped ribs, poor fitting formers, ANYTHING. Now
decide what to do about it, cause once the cover is on, these things
will stick out.
My second personal rule is "Don't ever even begin to imagine, that
the next step will cover up any little imperfection". Each step
will make it worse. Don't go onto the next step in the process
until you have this step completed as well as you can get it.
The good news is that the Poly Fiber process will result in a
beautiful finish and it is easy to do. If you want a 'wet' finish,
you can use the Aerothane products. If you want a more original
finish, you can use the Polytone products. Both are non-flammable
to the extent that they will not support combustion (remove the
flame and they will stop burning).
Most people don't do it, but you can make the Polytone finish look
like the had rubbed finish of some of the older luxury airplanes.
You need to sand a little more aggressively and use finer sandpaper,
but the results are crowd-pleasing. I finished my last airplane (J-
3 Cub on floats) with 900 grit before the first color coat, and 1200
grit before the last color coat, and 2400 grit two weeks after it
was painted.
My most important tip for painting, is to purchase a 'flip chart'
from the local office products store. Hang that flip-chart in your
paint booth. EVERY time you are about to start spraying something,
ALWAYS spray that flip-chart first. Look closely at the spray
pattern and coverage. Make adjustment at the flip-chart, NOT on
your nice airplane. I even test spray after I re-fill the paint gun.
Good Luck
Bob Waldron
Stillwater, MN
1939 Fairchild 24K
www.cpinternet.com/~rWaldron/
--- In
fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com, james chybicki
wrote:
>
> Hi Fairchild club
>
> Not to start a great big depate, but Bob and I are
> ready to cover our UC-61K Fuselage!!!!
> What's better a envelope or sheets?
> We are leaning toward the Poly Fiber application
> process, It appears to be the most user friendly.
> Is there any critical area's that a club memeber has
> found through restoring a F24 or old school knowledge?
> Any information and or guidance will be greatful!
>
> Thanks
> Keep 'Em Flying
> Jim Chybicki / Bob Coon
> UC-61K 43-14964 N24FM
>
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'