Page 1 of 1

F24R46 Cabin door drawings

Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2003 3:53 am
by Mr and Mrs F J Cox
'Can anyone help?

I am rebuilding the cabin doors and for reference it would be good to check the drawings as the present doors are well past their sell by date and have been poorly repaired in the past so I am not entirely sure if the dimensions are correct.

Unfortunately the drawings on the CD ROM are illegible

The drawings in question are: 411102 and 411103 - cabin door skeleton.

If anyone has a legible set of these I would be very willing to cover all the costs involved in copying, mailing etc.

Many thanks

Frank Cox


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]'

Re: F24R46 Cabin door drawings

Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2003 7:03 pm
by ROBERT COON
'Frank: Don't know how much advise you have gotten lately about rebuilding doors, but, from recent experience I can give you what I've come across. No two Fairchild 24's are exactly alike. Given the different craftsmen (or craftpersons if you prefer) who worked on the aircraft, each had their own way of doing things, and interpreting the prints. That was the first thing we noticed. Even though we had a set of doors they weren't from the aircraft we purchased. (Please realize we purchased a basket case of the poorest nature. It had been canabalized by each owner for whatever was needed. In various pieces for over 25 years.) However, cutting the doors to the size and angles of the original doors we have found ours to be a bit narrow. My suggestion would be to measure the inside of your door frame, door posts in place, deduct from material being placed on top of door posts (fabric, trip pieces, etc.) and you should have your basic measurements. Use your handy protractor for
angles, if necessary. I have put flush 1/8 inch mahagany gussets on the bottom, just as a precaution. Hopefully you have your regulator assemblies. Contrary to what everyone tells you, they are extremely hard to find. The replacements are much to thick for the door openings. Also, we had glass cut to the door angle dementions which gives us a tighter fit. Most everything else, from a trim standpoint is pretty straight forward if you have the old pieces.
Hope this has been some help. I'll be glad to send you some pictures of old and new. Any other info I can offer, just shoot me an e-mail. Good luck. Bob

Mr and Mrs F J Cox wrote:
Can anyone help?

I am rebuilding the cabin doors and for reference it would be good to check the drawings as the present doors are well past their sell by date and have been poorly repaired in the past so I am not entirely sure if the dimensions are correct.

Unfortunately the drawings on the CD ROM are illegible

The drawings in question are: 411102 and 411103 - cabin door skeleton.

If anyone has a legible set of these I would be very willing to cover all the costs involved in copying, mailing etc.

Many thanks

Frank Cox


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
fairchildclub-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]'

Re: F24R46 Cabin door drawings

Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2003 9:23 pm
by robert Etter
'I read your E-mail and can whole heartedly agree. I built my doors without
any drawings, and basically built the doors to match the door skins. I
differed slightly on the gussets. I put 4 on each corner, used 1/16"
plywood for the most part except where the diagonal 1/8" piece was used.
One on the outside, inside, and 2 more at 1/3 intervals across the joint.
It so happened that the hand saw that I was using made a perfect cut if
using 1/16" wood. Another thing that I did differently than original was
to plate the rear door frame member with 1/16" plywood, both front and back
side. It strengthened the door member and allowed me to use the same basic
spruce stock that I utilized for the other 3 door members. I think that it
was 1/16" plywood that I used. I really don't remember the numbers, but I
think the top, bottom, and front door members were 3/4", and the rear was I
believe 7/8". The two factory original doors that I have, and were never
ever used, had serious cracks in the rear door member in the vicinity of the
door latch.

Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "ROBERT COON"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 5:03 PM
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] F24R46 Cabin door drawings


> Frank: Don't know how much advise you have gotten lately about rebuilding
doors, but, from recent experience I can give you what I've come across. No
two Fairchild 24's are exactly alike. Given the different craftsmen (or
craftpersons if you prefer) who worked on the aircraft, each had their own
way of doing things, and interpreting the prints. That was the first thing
we noticed. Even though we had a set of doors they weren't from the
aircraft we purchased. (Please realize we purchased a basket case of the
poorest nature. It had been canabalized by each owner for whatever was
needed. In various pieces for over 25 years.) However, cutting the doors
to the size and angles of the original doors we have found ours to be a bit
narrow. My suggestion would be to measure the inside of your door frame,
door posts in place, deduct from material being placed on top of door posts
(fabric, trip pieces, etc.) and you should have your basic measurements. Use
your handy protractor for
> angles, if necessary. I have put flush 1/8 inch mahagany gussets on the
bottom, just as a precaution. Hopefully you have your regulator assemblies.
Contrary to what everyone tells you, they are extremely hard to find. The
replacements are much to thick for the door openings. Also, we had glass
cut to the door angle dementions which gives us a tighter fit. Most
everything else, from a trim standpoint is pretty straight forward if you
have the old pieces.
> Hope this has been some help. I'll be glad to send you some pictures of
old and new. Any other info I can offer, just shoot me an e-mail. Good
luck. Bob
>
> Mr and Mrs F J Cox wrote:
> Can anyone help?
>
> I am rebuilding the cabin doors and for reference it would be good to
check the drawings as the present doors are well past their sell by date and
have been poorly repaired in the past so I am not entirely sure if the
dimensions are correct.
>
> Unfortunately the drawings on the CD ROM are illegible
>
> The drawings in question are: 411102 and 411103 - cabin door skeleton.
>
> If anyone has a legible set of these I would be very willing to cover all
the costs involved in copying, mailing etc.
>
> Many thanks
>
> Frank Cox
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> fairchildclub-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> fairchildclub-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
'

Re: F24R46 Cabin door drawings

Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2003 4:18 pm
by Mr and Mrs F J Cox
'Bob,

Many thanks for your reply,

Yes, I have come to the same conclusion.

I am now on my second door and am building it in the frame using the hinges
as the starting point. and allowing 1/8" clearance all round- a bit
tricky -especially with the mating at the corners. after that it is all
pretty easy going. I hope to have this one done in another couple of days if
other things (like domestic matters) don't get in the way.

For your info I had a new instrument bulkhead made and would you believe it
only required a few taps with a ball peen hammer where it mates with the
fuselage tubes and it fitted perfectly. Having paid for the tool used to
form it I now have it in my shed. If you know any one who needs a new
instrument bulkhead then I have the means to get one made but I am afraid it
is not a cheap exercise.

Kind regards

Frank'

Re: F24R46 Cabin door drawings

Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2003 8:31 pm
by Tom and Carol Burmeister
'Frank for what it's worth. I made both of my doors from scratch including the aluminum door skins. I can only say that of all the parts I made that the doors were by far the most difficult pieces to make. My suggestion would be to make the doors first and then make the door sills on the fuselage fit the new door. I made my doors out of solid mahogany because it is stronger than the originally spruce and it will hold a wood screw much better. I reinforced the top corners with a 90 degree steel brace available from any hardware store. You must rout out the corners in order to make these braces flush. I made a door skin jig out of that heavy 3/4 inch underlayment particle board. Hope that helps you out .

Robert Etter wrote:I read your E-mail and can whole heartedly agree. I built my doors without
any drawings, and basically built the doors to match the door skins. I
differed slightly on the gussets. I put 4 on each corner, used 1/16"
plywood for the most part except where the diagonal 1/8" piece was used.
One on the outside, inside, and 2 more at 1/3 intervals across the joint.
It so happened that the hand saw that I was using made a perfect cut if
using 1/16" wood. Another thing that I did differently than original was
to plate the rear door frame member with 1/16" plywood, both front and back
side. It strengthened the door member and allowed me to use the same basic
spruce stock that I utilized for the other 3 door members. I think that it
was 1/16" plywood that I used. I really don't remember the numbers, but I
think the top, bottom, and front door members were 3/4", and the rear was I
believe 7/8". The two factory original doors that I have, and were never
ever used, had serious cracks in the rear door member in the vicinity of the
door latch.

Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "ROBERT COON"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 5:03 PM
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] F24R46 Cabin door drawings


> Frank: Don't know how much advise you have gotten lately about rebuilding
doors, but, from recent experience I can give you what I've come across. No
two Fairchild 24's are exactly alike. Given the different craftsmen (or
craftpersons if you prefer) who worked on the aircraft, each had their own
way of doing things, and interpreting the prints. That was the first thing
we noticed. Even though we had a set of doors they weren't from the
aircraft we purchased. (Please realize we purchased a basket case of the
poorest nature. It had been canabalized by each owner for whatever was
needed. In various pieces for over 25 years.) However, cutting the doors
to the size and angles of the original doors we have found ours to be a bit
narrow. My suggestion would be to measure the inside of your door frame,
door posts in place, deduct from material being placed on top of door posts
(fabric, trip pieces, etc.) and you should have your basic measurements. Use
your handy protractor for
> angles, if necessary. I have put flush 1/8 inch mahagany gussets on the
bottom, just as a precaution. Hopefully you have your regulator assemblies.
Contrary to what everyone tells you, they are extremely hard to find. The
replacements are much to thick for the door openings. Also, we had glass
cut to the door angle dementions which gives us a tighter fit. Most
everything else, from a trim standpoint is pretty straight forward if you
have the old pieces.
> Hope this has been some help. I'll be glad to send you some pictures of
old and new. Any other info I can offer, just shoot me an e-mail. Good
luck. Bob
>
> Mr and Mrs F J Cox wrote:
> Can anyone help?
>
> I am rebuilding the cabin doors and for reference it would be good to
check the drawings as the present doors are well past their sell by date and
have been poorly repaired in the past so I am not entirely sure if the
dimensions are correct.
>
> Unfortunately the drawings on the CD ROM are illegible
>
> The drawings in question are: 411102 and 411103 - cabin door skeleton.
>
> If anyone has a legible set of these I would be very willing to cover all
the costs involved in copying, mailing etc.
>
> Many thanks
>
> Frank Cox
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> fairchildclub-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> fairchildclub-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>


Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
fairchildclub-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com



Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.



---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
'

Re: F24R46 Cabin door drawings

Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2003 9:03 pm
by David Stroud
'Lads, I'll be scratch building some doors over the winter and would like to know if your doors
have sliding windows, either up/down or sideways. If so, what type of mechanisms are involved, please?
Thanks..

Dave Stroud, Ottawa, Canada
Christavia Mk 1 C-FDWS
Fairchild 51, early construction

----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom and Carol Burmeister"
To:
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 9:31 PM
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] F24R46 Cabin door drawings


> Frank for what it's worth. I made both of my doors from scratch including the aluminum door skins. I can only say that of
all the parts I made that the doors were by far the most difficult pieces to make. My suggestion would be to make the doors
first and then make the door sills on the fuselage fit the new door. I made my doors out of solid mahogany because it is
stronger than the originally spruce and it will hold a wood screw much better. I reinforced the top corners with a 90 degree
steel brace available from any hardware store. You must rout out the corners in order to make these braces flush. I made a
door skin jig out of that heavy 3/4 inch underlayment particle board. Hope that helps you out .
>
> Robert Etter wrote:I read your E-mail and can whole heartedly agree. I built my doors without
> any drawings, and basically built the doors to match the door skins. I
> differed slightly on the gussets. I put 4 on each corner, used 1/16"
> plywood for the most part except where the diagonal 1/8" piece was used.
> One on the outside, inside, and 2 more at 1/3 intervals across the joint.
> It so happened that the hand saw that I was using made a perfect cut if
> using 1/16" wood. Another thing that I did differently than original was
> to plate the rear door frame member with 1/16" plywood, both front and back
> side. It strengthened the door member and allowed me to use the same basic
> spruce stock that I utilized for the other 3 door members. I think that it
> was 1/16" plywood that I used. I really don't remember the numbers, but I
> think the top, bottom, and front door members were 3/4", and the rear was I
> believe 7/8". The two factory original doors that I have, and were never
> ever used, had serious cracks in the rear door member in the vicinity of the
> door latch.
>
> Bob
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "ROBERT COON"
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 5:03 PM
> Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] F24R46 Cabin door drawings
>
>
> > Frank: Don't know how much advise you have gotten lately about rebuilding
> doors, but, from recent experience I can give you what I've come across. No
> two Fairchild 24's are exactly alike. Given the different craftsmen (or
> craftpersons if you prefer) who worked on the aircraft, each had their own
> way of doing things, and interpreting the prints. That was the first thing
> we noticed. Even though we had a set of doors they weren't from the
> aircraft we purchased. (Please realize we purchased a basket case of the
> poorest nature. It had been canabalized by each owner for whatever was
> needed. In various pieces for over 25 years.) However, cutting the doors
> to the size and angles of the original doors we have found ours to be a bit
> narrow. My suggestion would be to measure the inside of your door frame,
> door posts in place, deduct from material being placed on top of door posts
> (fabric, trip pieces, etc.) and you should have your basic measurements. Use
> your handy protractor for
> > angles, if necessary. I have put flush 1/8 inch mahagany gussets on the
> bottom, just as a precaution. Hopefully you have your regulator assemblies.
> Contrary to what everyone tells you, they are extremely hard to find. The
> replacements are much to thick for the door openings. Also, we had glass
> cut to the door angle dementions which gives us a tighter fit. Most
> everything else, from a trim standpoint is pretty straight forward if you
> have the old pieces.
> > Hope this has been some help. I'll be glad to send you some pictures of
> old and new. Any other info I can offer, just shoot me an e-mail. Good
> luck. Bob
> >
> > Mr and Mrs F J Cox wrote:
> > Can anyone help?
> >
> > I am rebuilding the cabin doors and for reference it would be good to
> check the drawings as the present doors are well past their sell by date and
> have been poorly repaired in the past so I am not entirely sure if the
> dimensions are correct.
> >
> > Unfortunately the drawings on the CD ROM are illegible
> >
> > The drawings in question are: 411102 and 411103 - cabin door skeleton.
> >
> > If anyone has a legible set of these I would be very willing to cover all
> the costs involved in copying, mailing etc.
> >
> > Many thanks
> >
> > Frank Cox
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > fairchildclub-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > fairchildclub-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> fairchildclub-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> fairchildclub-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
'

Re: F24R46 Cabin door drawings

Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2003 11:17 pm
by Tom Downey
'
> Lads, I'll be scratch building some doors over the winter and
would like to know if your doors
> have sliding windows, either up/down or sideways. If so, what type
of mechanisms are involved, please?
> Thanks..
>
> Dave Stroud, Ottawa, Canada
> Christavia Mk 1 C-FDWS
> Fairchild 51, early construction
You can see my door progress at

http://www2.whidbey.net/nc19143/index.htm

I can also send pictures of the window lifts and door latches.

e-mail me at ias @whidbey.net take out the space after (ias)
or contact me thru the web page.'