F24R
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- Posts: 1
- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2002 10:04 am
F24R
'We will be selling a freshly restored F24R47. It has had the wings
rebuilt and covered, fuselage blasted and primed, new wood is going
on, engine is overhauled. We would like to contract it as a finished
airplane. Now is the time to pick your interior, exterior colors,
radios, etc. Finished airplane minus radios $50,000. Contact Gene
at 480-614-5778 or Mike at 405-288-6499'
rebuilt and covered, fuselage blasted and primed, new wood is going
on, engine is overhauled. We would like to contract it as a finished
airplane. Now is the time to pick your interior, exterior colors,
radios, etc. Finished airplane minus radios $50,000. Contact Gene
at 480-614-5778 or Mike at 405-288-6499'
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- Posts: 130
- Joined: Fri Feb 16, 2001 10:13 am
Re: F24R
'Gene,
Must be Mikes F-24.
Jamie'
Must be Mikes F-24.
Jamie'
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- Posts: 51
- Joined: Fri Jul 06, 2001 8:15 am
Re: F24R
'Yes. Jamie.
Gene
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]'
Gene
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]'
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- Posts: 109
- Joined: Thu Jun 07, 2001 4:03 pm
Starting problem
'Hello, All:
My F24R (200 hp Ranger) has never cranked enthusiastically, but it
always started. This season, however, it has become yet more lethargic
and now it barely makes it across the first compression stroke, two if
Im lucky. My A&P thought it was the old battery wiring, so I did some
voltage drop tests and discovered I was losing about 2V from the
battery (+) terminal to the starter motor while cranking; about 1V lost
from the battery to the master relay and 1V from the master relay
(through the starter relay) to the starter. Does this seem reasonable?
I would expect less.
The next day, after charging the battery, I took some auto jumper cables
and connected the battery directly to the starter terminals.
Surprise -- it still didnt crank perceptibly better. Assuming the
battery is healthy (it was load tested recently and passed), the starter
seems to be the problem. Does anyone have experience with rebuilding
the E-80? Can you take it to a local auto/marine electrical shop to be
rebuilt or must you go the aeronautical industry route [e.g.: Radial
Engines, Ltd. quotes $845 exchange!].
Any advice or information will be appreciated. I dont want to hand prop
it much longer.
Thanks.
:Dan Michael
:F24R46A NC81323'
My F24R (200 hp Ranger) has never cranked enthusiastically, but it
always started. This season, however, it has become yet more lethargic
and now it barely makes it across the first compression stroke, two if
Im lucky. My A&P thought it was the old battery wiring, so I did some
voltage drop tests and discovered I was losing about 2V from the
battery (+) terminal to the starter motor while cranking; about 1V lost
from the battery to the master relay and 1V from the master relay
(through the starter relay) to the starter. Does this seem reasonable?
I would expect less.
The next day, after charging the battery, I took some auto jumper cables
and connected the battery directly to the starter terminals.
Surprise -- it still didnt crank perceptibly better. Assuming the
battery is healthy (it was load tested recently and passed), the starter
seems to be the problem. Does anyone have experience with rebuilding
the E-80? Can you take it to a local auto/marine electrical shop to be
rebuilt or must you go the aeronautical industry route [e.g.: Radial
Engines, Ltd. quotes $845 exchange!].
Any advice or information will be appreciated. I dont want to hand prop
it much longer.
Thanks.
:Dan Michael
:F24R46A NC81323'
Re: Starting problem
'Dan: I had my E-80 overhauled at RB Sales, 14711 Lull, Van Nuys, CA, Rich
Benjamin, 818 785-5459. This happened about 5 yrs ago, but I assume he is
still doing this work. Bill Spriggs
Benjamin, 818 785-5459. This happened about 5 yrs ago, but I assume he is
still doing this work. Bill Spriggs
'----- Original Message -----
From: "danMichael"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 10:55 PM
Subject: [fairchildclub] Starting problem
> Hello, All:
>
> My F24R (200 hp Ranger) has never cranked enthusiastically, but it
> always started. This season, however, it has become yet more lethargic
> and now it barely makes it across the first compression stroke, two if
> Im lucky. My A&P thought it was the old battery wiring, so I did some
> voltage drop tests and discovered I was losing about 2V from the
> battery (+) terminal to the starter motor while cranking; about 1V lost
> from the battery to the master relay and 1V from the master relay
> (through the starter relay) to the starter. Does this seem reasonable?
> I would expect less.
>
> The next day, after charging the battery, I took some auto jumper cables
> and connected the battery directly to the starter terminals.
> Surprise -- it still didnt crank perceptibly better. Assuming the
> battery is healthy (it was load tested recently and passed), the starter
> seems to be the problem. Does anyone have experience with rebuilding
> the E-80? Can you take it to a local auto/marine electrical shop to be
> rebuilt or must you go the aeronautical industry route [e.g.: Radial
> Engines, Ltd. quotes $845 exchange!].
>
> Any advice or information will be appreciated. I dont want to hand prop
> it much longer.
>
> Thanks.
>
> :Dan Michael
> :F24R46A NC81323
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> fairchildclub-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
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- Posts: 51
- Joined: Fri Jul 06, 2001 8:15 am
Re: Starting problem
'I just exhanged an E80 for $675. S&T in Texas. I can get their information for you. It is who Radial sends theirs to. Yes you can replace your brushes and such yourself. Have your mechanic sign it off. So get with him first and make the arrangements.
They are not cheap but you do not have to exchange it.
For what it is worth.
Gene
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]'
They are not cheap but you do not have to exchange it.
For what it is worth.
Gene
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]'
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- Posts: 50
- Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2001 4:13 pm
Re: Starting problem
'Dan,
I am more familiar with the Y-150 than the E-80. Both are not cheap.
I also have a customers 24R46 that has a 200hp Ranger. The starter
has always struggled getting it over the top. The torque setting on
the Y-150 is 200ft lbs +-25lbs. One must be careful on the adjustment
due to the bottoming out of the adjustment of the clutch, bad things
will happen to the starter and engine. Contact RB Aero below, they
know starters and are still in business
RB Aero Inc. (Rich Benjamin) (Y-150 Generator, F-1 (F-24) Fuel
Selector, PT Eng Driven Fuel Pump 2P-227-D Overhaul & Sales) 818-785-
5459. No email or web site.
As for voltage drop, 2 volts is too much. The 24R46 that I was
talking about above has the same problem. I'm having the owner clean
all the connections, test batt with Hydrometer and then will check
the starter torque set up. The higher comp makes it harder for sure.
What I plan on doing in the future on all rebuilds, is getting away
with the airframe ground and running a ground cable up to the
starter, the rest of the elec will be to a common bus
ground. With all the connections, oil, grease, rust, the resistance
builds up and hence the voltage drop. Keep in mind voltage is like
water pressure, put in blocks and pressure drops.
Good luck,
Jamie Treat'
I am more familiar with the Y-150 than the E-80. Both are not cheap.
I also have a customers 24R46 that has a 200hp Ranger. The starter
has always struggled getting it over the top. The torque setting on
the Y-150 is 200ft lbs +-25lbs. One must be careful on the adjustment
due to the bottoming out of the adjustment of the clutch, bad things
will happen to the starter and engine. Contact RB Aero below, they
know starters and are still in business
RB Aero Inc. (Rich Benjamin) (Y-150 Generator, F-1 (F-24) Fuel
Selector, PT Eng Driven Fuel Pump 2P-227-D Overhaul & Sales) 818-785-
5459. No email or web site.
As for voltage drop, 2 volts is too much. The 24R46 that I was
talking about above has the same problem. I'm having the owner clean
all the connections, test batt with Hydrometer and then will check
the starter torque set up. The higher comp makes it harder for sure.
What I plan on doing in the future on all rebuilds, is getting away
with the airframe ground and running a ground cable up to the
starter, the rest of the elec will be to a common bus
ground. With all the connections, oil, grease, rust, the resistance
builds up and hence the voltage drop. Keep in mind voltage is like
water pressure, put in blocks and pressure drops.
Good luck,
Jamie Treat'
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- Posts: 88
- Joined: Thu Feb 15, 2001 5:31 pm
Re: Starting problem
'I too am a believer in true copper including the ground lead to the battery.
Nr 2 cable should be the minimum///walt thanks for your input Jamie
Nr 2 cable should be the minimum///walt thanks for your input Jamie
'----- Original Message -----
From: jstreat360
To:
Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 10:32 AM
Subject: [fairchildclub] Re: Starting problem
> Dan,
>
> I am more familiar with the Y-150 than the E-80. Both are not cheap.
> I also have a customers 24R46 that has a 200hp Ranger. The starter
> has always struggled getting it over the top. The torque setting on
> the Y-150 is 200ft lbs +-25lbs. One must be careful on the adjustment
> due to the bottoming out of the adjustment of the clutch, bad things
> will happen to the starter and engine. Contact RB Aero below, they
> know starters and are still in business
>
> RB Aero Inc. (Rich Benjamin) (Y-150 Generator, F-1 (F-24) Fuel
> Selector, PT Eng Driven Fuel Pump 2P-227-D Overhaul & Sales) 818-785-
> 5459. No email or web site.
>
> As for voltage drop, 2 volts is too much. The 24R46 that I was
> talking about above has the same problem. I'm having the owner clean
> all the connections, test batt with Hydrometer and then will check
> the starter torque set up. The higher comp makes it harder for sure.
> What I plan on doing in the future on all rebuilds, is getting away
> with the airframe ground and running a ground cable up to the
> starter, the rest of the elec will be to a common bus
> ground. With all the connections, oil, grease, rust, the resistance
> builds up and hence the voltage drop. Keep in mind voltage is like
> water pressure, put in blocks and pressure drops.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Jamie Treat
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> fairchildclub-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
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- Posts: 51
- Joined: Fri Jul 06, 2001 8:15 am
F24R
'Does anyone have a good back half of an F24? We had 100mph winds last night and blew most of the hangar doors of at the airport. Two just happen to hit the F24R we are recovering and bent it in hlaf about the battery box area.
Please let me know if any of you can help with a fuselage or part of one.
Thanks,
Gene Lehman
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]'
Please let me know if any of you can help with a fuselage or part of one.
Thanks,
Gene Lehman
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]'
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- Posts: 51
- Joined: Fri Jul 06, 2001 8:15 am
F24R
'I just purchsed a Beech Electric prop that you can run on a Fairchild 24R. It has the drive gears and motor but needs the black nitrate covering refinished. It has the big Flotorp baldes and a very nice looking hub, gear, and bearing. Quick $500 and shipping.
Gene
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]'
Gene
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]'