Re: F24R9 ldg.gear universal joints
Posted: Sat May 30, 2009 9:10 pm
'Just to add some to what I said the other day.
I would use 2 4x4's for the verticals. Set the bottoms about 1 1/2 ft apart, than nail triangular gussets to both sides and low enough just to clear the gear leg and all the way to the top. I used a scissor jack on top and to steady the jack and tri-pod, I used 2 lag bolted everything together. I also kept the hanger doors closed and most people out. Maybe in case I screwed up, or they may do it for me. I tried to always leave it in a safe position with common bolts or even screwdrivers.
I also use the scissor jack for any wheel/brake/tire work. I put a hole in the top of the scissor jack, so as to mate up with the locking bolt/nut for the axle/gear leg mating.... so it won't slip any.
Bob
00000000000000----- Original Message -----
From: harry hayman
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 25, 2009 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] Re: F24R9 ldg.gear universal joints
Hi Bob
Thanx for letting me pick your brain.that was a good solution for my problem.The one using the A Frame
Harry
Harry Hayman
Phone 904-284-4276
Fax 904-284-3869
I would use 2 4x4's for the verticals. Set the bottoms about 1 1/2 ft apart, than nail triangular gussets to both sides and low enough just to clear the gear leg and all the way to the top. I used a scissor jack on top and to steady the jack and tri-pod, I used 2 lag bolted everything together. I also kept the hanger doors closed and most people out. Maybe in case I screwed up, or they may do it for me. I tried to always leave it in a safe position with common bolts or even screwdrivers.
I also use the scissor jack for any wheel/brake/tire work. I put a hole in the top of the scissor jack, so as to mate up with the locking bolt/nut for the axle/gear leg mating.... so it won't slip any.
Bob
00000000000000----- Original Message -----
From: harry hayman
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 25, 2009 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] Re: F24R9 ldg.gear universal joints
Hi Bob
Thanx for letting me pick your brain.that was a good solution for my problem.The one using the A Frame
Harry
Harry Hayman
Phone 904-284-4276
Fax 904-284-3869
'--- On Fri, 5/22/09, Bob Etter wrote:
From: Bob Etter
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] Re: F24R9 ldg.gear universal joints
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, May 22, 2009, 4:41 PM
The last time that I did work on the landing gear, I used a rope around the top motor mounting, right at the fire wall. Another was I did it, was to make a simple "A" frame that would straddle the main gear leg, and jack the airplane up at a point inboard of the oleo strut attach point, on the tri-pod. And no I didn't have the wings in place when I lifted at the motor mounts.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: harry hayman
To: fairchildclub@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 6:02 AM
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] Re: F24R9 ldg.gear universal joints
Good Morning Bob
Thanx for the detailed answer to my Query.Asking for more info.Were the wings on or offI? .If they were on how did you support the wing ect while they were adrift?
Harry Hayman
Phone 904-284-4276
Fax 904-284-3869
--- On Fri, 5/22/09, Bob Etter wrote:
From: Bob Etter
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] Re: F24R9 ldg.gear universal joints
To: fairchildclub@ yahoogroups. com
Date: Friday, May 22, 2009, 12:19 AM
I know many owners don't have a clue, when looking at the universals, to
know which is which. The ones that need to be replaced don't have bushings,
and if you place one of the un-good ones beside the good ones, you will also
see that the bad ones are slightly smaller. The markings on either, are
slim to none.
Another idea for you all. If the bolts at the top of the gear are tough to
get into place and sometimes you shave off some of the bolts threads, you
may need to make new inserts with the hole on a slight angle. I used a CAD
program that I have to determine that my right side mounts were 0.9 deg
(front) and 1.3 deg (rear) off allignment. Why you say, the right main was
torn off. They did a good job welding everything back together, but the
allignment suffered.
I made a standard set of bushings, which I found out, wouldn't work. I was
cutting off threads. I put the standard set of bushings in place, while
knowing everything was off allignment. I put a new bolt in the front
attachment point with new bushings, then measured how much off-set there was
on the rear between the hole in the gear leg versus the new bushing in the
attachment point. This would tell me the angle that the front was off. I
then reversed everything and measured back to front, to give the anble that
the rear was off. I measured to 1/1000th inch and marked the position of
the off-set was headed, as in 7 o'clock, or 1 o'clock. I projected the
amount of off-set at the aft bushing versus the center of the two front
bushings. I used the CAD program to give the amount of shims that I would
need for the holding fixture for the bushing so I could bore it at an angle.
(It will draw stuff down to 1/1000 inch)
When I was done, I was pushing both bolts into place with my thumb, with a
tolerance of I'm sure this will be the first of many questions. When I received the
> fuselage it was already varnished (as were the wings) with a wood varnish.
> I'm going to remove that varnish around the door openings, window openings
> around the header above the windshield etc. and replace it with epoxy
> varnish (polyfiber process). My question is what do I do to the stringers,
> do they need be stripped/sanded and coated with the epoxy varnish?
> Thanks for any help you can provide.
> George Sands
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