Re: PT-19-26 parts

An archive of all the messages posted in the old Fairchild Club Yahoo Group. It is not possible to start a new topic in this forum (please use one of the other forums for new threads), but you can continue to post on existing topics.
Tom
Posts: 32
Joined: Fri Oct 09, 2009 8:54 am

Re: Hayes Brakes

Post by Tom »

'--- In fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com, "craigroads" wrote:
>
> I am looking for some advice from the group. I purchased new brake blocks from Fresno, and found that I can not reinstall the brake assembly into the wheel casting due to clearance. I suspect that the expander tube has swelled as we have been using DOT3 for years. I have a second spare Hayes Brake set. The new brake blocks fit on the second set just fine, but found I have a fluid leak on one of the tube stems where it fits into the nozzel conection. The leak is from a failed rubber nozzle packing. Tried some "O" rings from NAPA as a substitute for the rubber nozzle packing but way too big.
>
> Is there advice as to how to replace/substitute the rubber nozzle packing? That would be my first choice. Or should I go find someone to try and turn the blocks down for me?
>
> p.s. I have been seeing the comments about master brake cylinders of late. We had our master cylinders bored and sleeved in the mid 90's and they work great.
>
> Craig Stone
> F24R46 N81204
> Renton, WA
>
Craig,
If you installed the springs correctly,. it's very easy to install one facing the wrong way, and it all went together nice and tight, BUT when you try to slip the finished brake pad assembly onto the drum and it just won't go, then you have the wrong pads for your drum. There are two types. The part number B-27-38 is a 1 ½" curved length pad and is for F-24W46 and F-24R46 models. There is another block they sell that's 2" in length, and I don't have any idea what airplane that goes on. If you told those Fresno boys to send brake pads for Fairchild F-24 then that's on them. They're good guys and will make it right. Also when you get the correct pad, they will be snug. I think everybody just ends up sanding them down with 80 grit or something. I know the book says to shoot for .007 or .010 thousands, but I've found that is to tight. Mine are .012 thousands or in that area. That gives a little breathing room and the braking action is very adequate. Hope that helps.
Tom
Hanford,Ca.'
Gene Haines
Posts: 78
Joined: Fri May 14, 2010 12:58 pm

Re: Hayes Brakes

Post by Gene Haines »

'I wonder how many of you have read the maintenance manual that describes the procedures for installing the Hayes brakes? It is detailed.





-----Original Message-----
From: BOB DUNN
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, Jun 6, 2010 6:09 pm
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] Hayes Brakes




Use a flat rasp to work the blocks down a bit, then a file & finally fine grit san dpaper. The blocks are made a little thick & have to be worked down ^ fitted..
--- On Sat, 6/5/10, craigroads wrote:

From: craigroads
Subject: [fairchildclub] Hayes Brakes
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, June 5, 2010, 5:39 PM



I am looking for some advice from the group. I purchased new brake blocks from Fresno, and found that I can not reinstall the brake assembly into the wheel casting due to clearance. I suspect that the expander tube has swelled as we have been using DOT3 for years. I have a second spare Hayes Brake set. The new brake blocks fit on the second set just fine, but found I have a fluid leak on one of the tube stems where it fits into the nozzel conection. The leak is from a failed rubber nozzle packing. Tried some "O" rings from NAPA as a substitute for the rubber nozzle packing but way too big.

Is there advice as to how to replace/substitute the rubber nozzle packing? That would be my first choice. Or should I go find someone to try and turn the blocks down for me?

p.s. I have been seeing the comments about master brake cylinders of late. We had our master cylinders bored and sleeved in the mid 90's and they work great.

Craig Stone
F24R46 N81204
Renton, WA

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
'
Gene Haines
Posts: 78
Joined: Fri May 14, 2010 12:58 pm

PT-19-26 parts

Post by Gene Haines »

'Vintage Aircraft Group is in need of a pair of wing gap fairing's, part number 731`72 and the "turtleback" parts, including the baggage compartment, from the rear seat to the tail.

Gene Haines
585-747-3278






-----Original Message-----
From: Gene Haines
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, Jun 13, 2010 6:45 pm
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] Hayes Brakes




I wonder how many of you have read the maintenance manual that describes the procedures for installing the Hayes brakes? It is detailed.

-----Original Message-----
From: BOB DUNN
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, Jun 6, 2010 6:09 pm
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] Hayes Brakes

Use a flat rasp to work the blocks down a bit, then a file & finally fine grit san dpaper. The blocks are made a little thick & have to be worked down ^ fitted..
--- On Sat, 6/5/10, craigroads wrote:

From: craigroads
Subject: [fairchildclub] Hayes Brakes
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, June 5, 2010, 5:39 PM

I am looking for some advice from the group. I purchased new brake blocks from Fresno, and found that I can not reinstall the brake assembly into the wheel casting due to clearance. I suspect that the expander tube has swelled as we have been using DOT3 for years. I have a second spare Hayes Brake set. The new brake blocks fit on the second set just fine, but found I have a fluid leak on one of the tube stems where it fits into the nozzel conection. The leak is from a failed rubber nozzle packing. Tried some "O" rings from NAPA as a substitute for the rubber nozzle packing but way too big.

Is there advice as to how to replace/substitute the rubber nozzle packing? That would be my first choice. Or should I go find someone to try and turn the blocks down for me?

p.s. I have been seeing the comments about master brake cylinders of late. We had our master cylinders bored and sleeved in the mid 90's and they work great.

Craig Stone
F24R46 N81204
Renton, WA

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
'
Herb Carper
Posts: 7
Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2005 8:58 pm

Re: PT-19-26 parts

Post by Herb Carper »

'Gene,
 
I have an extra top rear deck assembly, part no. 605025-1 shown in Fig. 56, Airplane Parts Catalog for PT-19, PT-19A and others.  It is all wood construction and needs a little glue work.
 
Herbie Carper
Uvalde, Texas
PT-19A, NC50480
--- On Mon, 6/14/10, Gene Haines wrote:


From: Gene Haines
Subject: [fairchildclub] PT-19-26 parts
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday, June 14, 2010, 7:49 PM


 




Vintage Aircraft Group is in need of a pair of wing gap fairing's, part number 731`72 and the "turtleback" parts, including the baggage compartment, from the rear seat to the tail.

Gene Haines
585-747-3278

-----Original Message-----
From: Gene Haines
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, Jun 13, 2010 6:45 pm
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] Hayes Brakes

I wonder how many of you have read the maintenance manual that describes the procedures for installing the Hayes brakes? It is detailed.

-----Original Message-----
From: BOB DUNN
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, Jun 6, 2010 6:09 pm
Subject: Re: [fairchildclub] Hayes Brakes

Use a flat rasp to work the blocks down a bit, then a file & finally fine grit san dpaper. The blocks are made a little thick & have to be worked down ^ fitted..

--- On Sat, 6/5/10, craigroads wrote:

From: craigroads
Subject: [fairchildclub] Hayes Brakes
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, June 5, 2010, 5:39 PM

I am looking for some advice from the group. I purchased new brake blocks from Fresno, and found that I can not reinstall the brake assembly into the wheel casting due to clearance. I suspect that the expander tube has swelled as we have been using DOT3 for years. I have a second spare Hayes Brake set. The new brake blocks fit on the second set just fine, but found I have a fluid leak on one of the tube stems where it fits into the nozzel conection. The leak is from a failed rubber nozzle packing. Tried some "O" rings from NAPA as a substitute for the rubber nozzle packing but way too big.

Is there advice as to how to replace/substitute the rubber nozzle packing? That would be my first choice. Or should I go find someone to try and turn the blocks down for me?

p.s. I have been seeing the comments about master brake cylinders of late. We had our master cylinders bored and sleeved in the mid 90's and they work great.

Craig Stone
F24R46 N81204
Renton, WA

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
'
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