'I forgot to add something on my last E-mail.
The packings are not a solid rings. Both the top/inner and the bottom/outer packings have a cut in them. The cut runs downward and angles in the counter-clockwise direction at an angle of around 45 deg.
The top one should be dislodged easily, and could be moved up the strut. The lower one could be a real bear. You may be able to catch it to the counter-clockwise side of the cut and work it upward.
Bob
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]'
Re: Oleo strut packing
-
Tom Mueller
- Posts: 83
- Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 3:18 pm
Re: Oleo strut packing
'Bob,
How in the hell is the title holder of longest running extended annual
doing. I'll be doing some desert flying come spring. I've got to
eyeball your plane.
I recently installed new strut packing seals that came with purchase
of my plane. The old ones weren't leaking. It just seemed to be the
thing to do? The old ones had a lite layer of black rubber around the
seals. The new seals are composed of some type of layered fibrous
material. There is no rubber coating. The whole seal is impregnated
with some type of graphite compound. These seals are not hard in any
way. They are the correct .375" as called for, but even at that, I
found them to thick to allow for the "only one thread showing" gland
nut requirement. I peeled a couple a three layers off the bottom seal
and it made for a much better fit. If you're trying to save the old
seals use a small pick and they'll come out. They're not as delicate
as you may think. See ya, Merry Christmas
Tom
Hanford,Ca'
How in the hell is the title holder of longest running extended annual
doing. I'll be doing some desert flying come spring. I've got to
eyeball your plane.
I recently installed new strut packing seals that came with purchase
of my plane. The old ones weren't leaking. It just seemed to be the
thing to do? The old ones had a lite layer of black rubber around the
seals. The new seals are composed of some type of layered fibrous
material. There is no rubber coating. The whole seal is impregnated
with some type of graphite compound. These seals are not hard in any
way. They are the correct .375" as called for, but even at that, I
found them to thick to allow for the "only one thread showing" gland
nut requirement. I peeled a couple a three layers off the bottom seal
and it made for a much better fit. If you're trying to save the old
seals use a small pick and they'll come out. They're not as delicate
as you may think. See ya, Merry Christmas
Tom
Hanford,Ca'
Re: Oleo strut packing
'After hearing your opinion of the composite of the packings, I think that I must agree. It is black, flexible, and wasn't hard, so you can see where I was going. But it is sure some strange looking stuff. I think that I will live with the leaks, but I am going to try and find a boot that I could clamp to the top of the cylinder and fit loosely around the shaft for the piston. Something for the front forks of a motor cycle may work.
I be looking for you come summer time.
My new stabilizer is almost done. I need to put the mounting brackets in place for the last time. The front rudder bracket needs to be remade. Some one made some extra holes in the top. Remake and install the 2 middle and 2 outer elevator brackets. Verify that everything is in place, then skin the bottom.
I was really worried about the front stab attachment brackets. The front spar is 1/4" X 6" X 12' that are laminated together, then plated front and rear with 1/8" X 6" X 3' plywood, and also 1/16" X 6" X 20" plywood. all that had to be done while making a 16 deg bend over about 12". I can put both front bolts in with the push of a thumb.
I be looking for you come summer time.
My new stabilizer is almost done. I need to put the mounting brackets in place for the last time. The front rudder bracket needs to be remade. Some one made some extra holes in the top. Remake and install the 2 middle and 2 outer elevator brackets. Verify that everything is in place, then skin the bottom.
I was really worried about the front stab attachment brackets. The front spar is 1/4" X 6" X 12' that are laminated together, then plated front and rear with 1/8" X 6" X 3' plywood, and also 1/16" X 6" X 20" plywood. all that had to be done while making a 16 deg bend over about 12". I can put both front bolts in with the push of a thumb.
'----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Mueller
To: fairchildclub@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2008 5:27 PM
Subject: [fairchildclub] Re: Oleo strut packing
Bob,
How in the hell is the title holder of longest running extended annual
doing. I'll be doing some desert flying come spring. I've got to
eyeball your plane.
I recently installed new strut packing seals that came with purchase
of my plane. The old ones weren't leaking. It just seemed to be the
thing to do. The old ones had a lite layer of black rubber around the
seals. The new seals are composed of some type of layered fibrous
material. There is no rubber coating. The whole seal is impregnated
with some type of graphite compound. These seals are not hard in any
way. They are the correct .375" as called for, but even at that, I
found them to thick to allow for the "only one thread showing" gland
nut requirement. I peeled a couple a three layers off the bottom seal
and it made for a much better fit. If you're trying to save the old
seals use a small pick and they'll come out. They're not as delicate
as you may think. See ya, Merry Christmas
Tom
Hanford,Ca
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]